best italian dishes

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Artwork: alessandro del pita

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best italian dishes

by

Artwork: alessandro del pita

  • Joined Jan 2018
  • Published Books 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Delicious Italian dishes

(Collection of 185 Italian recipes)

 

“Show me a pleasure like dinner, which comes every day and lasts an hour.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 1 –

 

Contents

Italian Sauces

  1. Espagnole or Brown Sauce. 2. Velute Sauce. 3. Bechamel Sauce. 4. Mirepoix Sauce
  2. Genoese Sauce. 6. Italian Sauce. 7. Ham Sauce (Salsa di Prosciutto). 8. Tarragon Sauce.
  3. Tomato Sauce. 10. Tomato Sauce Piquante. 11. Mushroom Sauce. 12. Neapolitan Sauce. 13. Neapolitan Anchovy Sauce. 14. Roman Sauce (Salsa Agro-dolce). 15. Roman Sauce (another). 16. Supreme Sauce. 17. Pasta marinate (for masking Italian Frys). 18. White Villeroy.

Modern Italian Sauces

  1. Fish Sauce. 2. Sauce Piquante (for Meat, Fowl, Game, Rabbit). 3. Sauce for Venison, Hare
  2. Tomato Sauce Piquante. 5. Sauce for Roast Pork, Ham etc. 6. For masking Cutlets

Italian Soups

  1. Clear Soup. 2. Zuppa Primaverile (Spring Soup). 3. Soup alla Lombarda. 4. Tuscan Soup.
  2. Venetian Soup. 6. Roman Soup. 7. Soup alla Nazionale. 8. Soup alla Modanese.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 2 –

  1. 9. Crotopo Soup. 10. Soup all’Imperatrice. 11. Neapolitan Soup. 12. Soup with Risotto.
  2. Soup alla Canavese. 14. Soup alla Maria l’ia. 15. Zuppa d’Erbe (Lettuce Soup).
  3. Zuppa Regina di Riso (Queen’s soup).

 

Italian Minestre

  1. A Condiment for Seasoning Minestre. 2. Minestra alla Casalinga. 3. Minestra of Rice and Turnips. 4. Minestra alla Capucina. 5. Minestra of Semolina. 6. Minestrone alla Milanese.
  2. Minestra of Rice and Cabbage. 8. Minestra of Rice and Celery. 9. Anguilla alla Milanese (Eels). 10. Filletti di Pesce alla Villeroy (Fillets of Fish). 11. Astachi all’Italiana (Lobster).
  3. Baccala alla Giardiniera (Cod). 13. Triglie alla Marinara (Mullet). 14. Mullet alla Tolosa.
  4. Mullet alla Triestina. 16. Whiting alla Genovese. 17. Merluzzo in Bianco (Cod).
  5. Merluzzo in Salamoia (Cod). 19. Baccala in Istufato (Haddock). 20. Naselli con Piselli (Whiting).
  6. Ostriche alla Livornese (Oysters). 22. Ostriche alla Napolitana (Oysters).
  7. Ostriche alla Neneziana (Oysters). 24. Pesci diversi alla Casalinga (Fish).
  8. Pesce alla Genovese (Sole or Turbot). 26. Sogliole in Zimino (Sole). 27. Sogliole al tegame (Sole).
  9. Sogliole alla Livornese (Sole). 29. Sogliole alla Veneziana (Sole).
  10. Sogliole alla parmigiana (Sole). 31. Salmone alla Genovese (Salmon).
  11. Salmone alla Perigo (Salmon). 33. Salmone alla giardiniera (Salmon).
  12. Salmone alla Farnese (Salmon). 35. Salmone alla Santa Fiorentina (Salmon).
  13. Salmone alla Francesca (Salmon). 37. Fillets of Salmon in Papiliotte.

 

Beef, Mutton, Veal and Lamb

  1. Manzo alla Certosina (Fillet of Beef). 2. Stufato alla Fiorentina (Stewed Beef).
  2. Coscia di Manzo al Forno (Rump Steak). 4. Polpettine alla Salsa Piccante (Beef Olives).
  3. Stufato alla Milanese (Stewed Beef). 6. Manzo Marinato Arrosto (Marinated Beef).
  4. Manzo con sugo di Barbabietole (Fillet of Beef). 8. Manzo in Insalata (Marinated Beef).
  5. Filetto di Bue con Pistacchi (Fillets of Beef with Pistacchios).
  6. Scalopini di Rizo (Beef with Risotto). 11. Tenerumi alla Piemontese (Tendons of Veal).
  7. Bragiuole di Vitello (Veal Cutlets). 13. Costolette alla Monza (Veal Cutlets).
  8. Vitello alla Pellegrina (Breast of Veal). 15. Frittura Piccata al Marsala (Fillet of Veal).
  9. Polpettine Distese (Veal Olives). 17. Coste di Vitello Imboracciate (Ribs of Veal).
  10. Costolette di Montone alla Nizzarda (Mutton Cutlets).
  11. Petto di Castrato all’Italiana (Breast of Mutton).
  12. Petto di Castrato alla Salsa piccante (Breast of Mutton).
  13. Tenerumi d’ Agnello alla Villeroy (Tendons of Lamb).
  14. Tenerumi d’ Agnello alla Veneziana (Tendons of Lamb).
  15. Costoletto d’Agnello alla Costanza (Lamb Cutlets).

 

 

– 3 –

 

Tongue, Sweetbread, Calf’s Head and Liver

  1. Timballo alla Romana. 2. Timballo alla Lombarda. 3. Lingua alla Visconti (Tongue).
  2. Lingua di Manzo al Citriuoli (Tongue with Cucumber).
  3. Lingue di Castrato alla Cuciniera (Sheep’s Tongues).
  4. Lingue di Vitello all’Italiana (Calves’ Tongues). 7. Ateletti alla Sarda.
  5. Ateletti alla Genovese. 9. Testa di Vitello alla Sorrentina (Calf’s Head).
  6. Testa di Vitello con Salsa Napoletana (Calf’s head).
  7. Testa di Vitello alla Pompadour (Calf’s Head). 12. Testa di Vitello alla Sanseverino (Calf’s Head).
  8. Testa di Vitello in Frittata (Calf’s Head). 14. Zampetti (Calves’ Feet). 15. Bodini Marinati.
  9. Animelle alla Parmegiana (Sweetbread). 17. Animelle in Cartoccio (Sweetbread).
  10. Animelle all’Italiana (Sweetbread). 19. Animelle Lardellate (Sweetbread).
  11. Sweetbreads and Mushrooms 21. Cervello in Filiserbe (Calf’s Brains).
  12. Cervello alla Milanese (Calf’s Brains). 23. Cervello alla Villeroy (Calf’s Brains).
  13. Frittuta of Cervello (Calf’s Brains). 25. Cervello alla Frittata Montano (Calf’s Brains).
  14. Marinata di Cervello alla Villeroy (Calf’s Brains). 27. Minuta alla Milanese (Lamb’s Sweetbread).
  15. Animelle al Sapor di Targone (Lamb’s Fry). 29. Fritto Misto alla Villeroy.
  16. Fritto Misto alla Piemontese. 31. Minuta di Fegatini (Ragout of Fowls’ Livers).
  17. Minuta alla Visconti (Chickens’ Livers). 33. Croutons alla Principessa.
  18. Croutons alla Romana.

 

Fowl, Duck, Game, Hare and Rabbit

  1. Soffiato di Cappone (Fowl Souffle). 2. Pollo alla Fiorentina (Chicken).
  2. Pollo ali’Oliva (Chicken). 4. Pollo alla Villereccia (Chicken).
  3. Pollo alla Cacciatora (Chicken). 6. Pollastro alla Lorenese (Fowl).
  4. Pollastro in Fricassea al Burro (Fowl). 8. Pollastro in istufa di Pomidoro (Braized Fowl).
  5. Cappone con Riso (Capon with Rice). 10. Dindo Arrosto alla Milanese (Roast Turkey).
  6. Tacchinotto all’Istriona (Turkey Poult). 12. Fagiano alla Napoletana (Pheasant).
  7. Fagiano alla Perigo (Pheasant). 14. Anitra Selvatica (Wild Duck).
  8. Perniciotti alla Gastalda (Partridges). 16. Piccioni alla Diplomatica (Snipe).
  9. Piccioni alla minute (Pigeons) 18. Piccioni in Ripieno (Stuffed Pigeons).
  10. Lepre in istufato (Stewed Hare). 20. Lepre Agro-dolce (Hare).
  11. Coniglio alla Provenzale (Rabbit). 22. Coniglio arrostito alla Corradino (Roast Rabbit).
  12. Coniglio in salsa Piccante (Rabbit).

 

Italian Vegetable Dishes

  1. Asparagi alla salsa Suprema (Asparagus). 2. Cavoli di Bruxelles alla Savoiarda (Brussels Sprouts).
  2. Barbabietola alla Parmigiana (Beetroot). 4. Fave alla Savoiarda (Beans).

 

 

– 4 –

 

ian dishes5. Verze alla Capuccina (Cabbage). 6. Cavoli fiori alla Lionese (Cauliflower).

  1. Cavoli fiori fritti (Cauliflower). 8. Cauliflower alla Parmigiana.
  2. Cavoli Fiori Ripieni. 10. Sedani alla l’armigiana (Celery). 11. Sedani Fritti all’Italiana (Celery).
  3. Cetriuoli alla Parmigiana (Cucumber). 13. Cetriuoli alla Borghese (Cucumber).
  4. Carote al sughillo (Carrots). 15. Carote e piselli alla panna (Carrots and peas).
  5. Verze alla Certosina (Cabbage). 17. Lattughe al sugo (Lettuce).
  6. Lattughe farcite alla Genovese (Lettuce). 19. Funghi cappelle infarcite (Stuffed Mushrooms).
  7. Verdure miste (Macedoine of Vegetables). 21. Patate alla crema (Potatoes in cream).
  8. Cestelline cli patate alla giardiniera (Potatoes).
  9. Patate al Pomidoro (Potatoes with Tomato Sauce). 24. Spinaci alla Milanese (Spinach).
  10. Insalata di patate (Potato salad). 26. Insalata alla Navarino (Salad).
  11. Insalata di pomidoro (Tomato Salad). 28. Tartufi alla Dino (Truffles).

 

Macaroni, Rice, Polenta, All Other Italian Pastes

  1. Macaroni with Tomatoes 2. Macaroni alla Casalinga.
  2. Macaroni al Sughillo. 4. Macaroni alla Livornese. 5.Tagliarelle and Lobster.
  3. Polenta. 7. Polenta Pasticciata. 8. Battuffoli. 9. Risotto all’Italiana.
  4. Risotto alla Genoxese. 11.Risotto alla Spagnuola. 12.Risotto alla Capuccina.

13.Risotto alla Parigina. 14.Ravioli. 15. Ravioli alla Fiorentina.

  1. Gnoechi alla Romana. 17.Gnoechi alla Lombarda. 18. Frittata di Riso (Savoury Rice Pancake).

 

Omelettes and Other Egg Dishes

  1. Uova ai Tartufi (Eggs with Truffles). 2. Uova al Pomidoro (Eggs and Tomatoes).
  2. Uova ripiene (Canapes of Egg). 4. Uova alla Fiorentina (Eggs).
  3. Uova in fili (Egg Canapes). 6. Frittata di funghi (Mushroom Omelette).
  4. Frittata eon Pomidoro (Tomato Omelette). 8. Frittata con Asparagi (Asparagus Omelette).
  5. Frittata eon erbe (Omelette with Herbs). 10. Frittata Montata (Omelette Souffle’).
  6. Frittata di Proseiutto (Ham Omelette).

 

Italian Sweets and Cakes

  1. Bodino off Semolina. 2. Crema rappresa (Coffee Cream).

3.Crema Montata alle Fragole (Strawberry Cream). 4. Croccante di Mandorle (Cream Nougat).

  1. Crema tartara alla Caramella (Caramel Cream). 6. Cremona Cake. 7.Cake alla Tolentina.
  2. Riso all’Imperatrice. 9.Amaretti leggier (Almond Cakes). 10.Cakes alla Livornese.11. Genoese Pastry. 12. Zabajone. 13. Iced Zabajone. 14. Panforte di Siena (Sienese Hardbake).

– 5 –

 

                                      Italian Sauces

As the three chief foundation sauces in cookery, Espagnole or brown

sauce, Velute or white sauce, and Bechamel, are alluded to so often

in these pages, it will be well to give simple Italian recipes for

them.

Australian wines may be used in all recipes where wine is

mentioned: Harvest Burgundy for red, and Chasselas for Chablis.

 

No. 1. Espagnole, or Brown Sauce

The chief ingredient of this useful sauce is good stock, to which

add any remnants and bones of fowl or game. Butter the bottom of a

stewpan with at least two ounces of butter, and in it put slices of

lean veal, ham, bacon, cuttings of beef, fowl, or game trimmings,

three peppercorns, mushroom trimmings, a tomato, a carrot and a

turnip cut up, an onion stuck with two cloves, a bay leaf, a sprig

of thyme, parsley and marjoram. Put the lid on the stewpan and

braize well for fifteen minutes, then stir in a tablespoonful of

flour, and pour in a quarter pint of good boiling stock and boil

very gently for fifteen minutes, then strain through a tamis, skim

off all the grease, pour the sauce into an earthenware vessel, and

let it get cold. If it is not rich enough, add a little Liebig or

glaze. Pass through a sieve again before using.

 

No. 2. Velute Sauce

The same as above, but use white stock, no beef, and only

pheasant or fowl trimmings, button mushrooms, cream instead of

glaze, and a chopped shallot.

 

No. 3. Bechamel Sauce

Ingredients: Butter, ham, veal, carrots, shallot, celery bay leaf,

cloves, thyme, peppercorns, potato flour, cream, fowl stock.

Prepare a mirepoix by mixing two ounces of butter, trimmings of

lean veal and ham, a carrot, a shallot, a little celery, all cut

into dice, a bay leaf, two cloves, four peppercorns, and a little

thyme. Put this on a moderate fire so as not to let it colour, and

when all the moisture is absorbed add a tablespoonful of potato

flour. Mix well, and gradually add equal quantities of cream and

fowl stock, and stir till it boils. Then let it simmer gently.

Stir occasionally, and if it gets too thick, add more cream and

white stock. After two hours pass it twice slowly through a tamis

so as to get the sauce very smooth.

 

No. 4. Mirepoix Sauce (for masking)

Ingredients: Bacon, onions, carrots, ham, a bunch of herbs,

parsley, mushrooms, cloves, peppercorns, stock, Chablis.

Put the following ingredients into a stewpan: Some bits of bacon

and lean ham, a carrot, all cut into dice, half an onion, a bunch

of herbs, a few mushroom cuttings, two cloves, and four

peppercorns. To this add one and a quarter pint of good stock and

a glass of Chablis, boil rapidly for ten minutes then simmer till

it is reduced to a third. Pass through a sieve and use for masking

meat, fowl, fish, &c.

 

No. 5. Genoese Sauce

Ingredients: Onion, butter, Burgundy, mushrooms, truffles,

parsley, bay leaf, Espagnole sauce, blond of veal, essence

of fish, anchovy butter, crayfish or lobster butter.

Cut up a small onion and fry it in butter, add a glass of Burgundy,

some cuttings of mushrooms and truffles, a pinch of chopped parsley

and half a bay leaf. Reduce half. In another saucepan put two

cups of Espagnole sauce, one cup of veal stock, and a tablespoonful

of essence of fish, reduce one-third and add it to the other

saucepan, skim off all the grease, boil for a few minutes, and pass

through a sieve. Then stir it over the fire, and add half a

teaspoonful of crayfish and half of anchovy butter.

 

No. 6. Italian Sauce

Ingredients: Chablis, mushrooms, leeks, a bunch of herbs,

peppercorns, Espagnole sauce, game gravy or stock, lemon.

 

 

 

 

 

– 7 –

 

Put into a stewpan two glasses of Chablis, two tablespoonsful of

mushroom trimmings, a leek cut up, a bunch of herbs, five

peppercorns, and boil till it is reduced to half. In another

stewpan mix two glasses of Espagnole or Velute sauce and

half a glass of game gravy, boil for a few minutes then blend

the contents of the two stewpans, pass through a sieve, and add the

juice of a lemon.

 

No. 7. Ham Sauce, Salsa di Prosciutto

Ingredients: Ham, Musca or sweet port, vinegar, basil spice.

Cut up an ounce of ham and pound it in a mortar then mix it with

three dessert spoonsful of port or Musca and a teaspoonful of

vinegar a little dried basil and a pinch of spice. Boil it up, and

then pass it through a sieve and warm it up in a bain-marie. Serve

with roast meats. If you cannot get a sweet wine add half a

teaspoonful of sugar. Australian Muscat is a good wine to use.

 

No. 8. Tarragon Sauce

Ingredients: Tarragon, stock, butter, flour.

To half a pint of good stock add two good sprays of fresh tarragon,

simmer for quarter of an hour in a stewpan and keep the lid on. In

another stewpan melt one ounce of butter and mix it with three

dessert-spoonsful of flour, then gradually pour the stock from the

first stewpan over it, but take out the tarragon. Mix well, add a

teaspoonful of finely chopped tarragon and boil for two minutes.

 

No. 9. Tomato Sauce

Ingredients: Tomatoes, ham, onions, basil, salt, oil, garlic,

spices.

Broil three tomatoes, skin them and mix them with a tablespoonful

of chopped ham, half an onion, salt, a dessert-spoonful of oil, a

little pounded spice and basil. Then boil and pass through a

sieve. Whilst the sauce is boiling, put in a clove of garlic with

a cut, but remove it before you pass the sauce through the sieve.

 

No. 10. Tomato Sauce Piquante

Ingredients: Ham, butter, onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf, thyme,

cloves, peppercorns, vinegar, Chablis, stock, tomatoes, Velute or

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 8 –

 

Espagnole sauce, castor sugar, lemon.

Cut up an ounce of ham, half an onion, half a carrot, half a stick

of celery very fine, and fry them in butter together with a bay

leaf, a sprig of thyme, one clove and four peppercorns. Over this

pour a third of a cup of vinegar, and when the liquid is all

absorbed, add half a glass of Chablis and a cup of stock. Then add

six tomatoes cut up and strained of all their liquid. Cook this in

a covered stewpan and pass it through a sieve, but see that none of

the bay leaf or thyme goes through. Mix this sauce with an equal

quantity of Velute or Espagnole sauce, let it boil

and pass through a sieve again and at the last add a teaspoonful of

castor sugar, the juice of half a lemon, and an ounce of fresh

butter. (Another tomato sauce may be made like this, but use stock

instead of vinegar and leave out the lemon juice and sugar.)

 

No. 11. Mushroom Sauce

Ingredients: Velute sauce, essence of mushrooms, butter.

Mix two dessert-spoonsful of essence of mushrooms with a cupful of

Velute sauce, reduce, keep on stirring, and just before

serving add an ounce of butter. This sauce can be made with

essence of truffle, or game, or shallot.

 

No. 12. Neapolitan Sauce

Ingredients: Onions, ham, butter, Marsala, blond of veal, thyme,

bay leaf, peppercorns, cloves, mushrooms, Espagnole sauce,

tomato sauce, game stock or essence.

Fry an onion in butter with some bits of cut-up ham, then pour a

glass of Marsala over it, and another of blond of veal, add a sprig

of thyme, a bay leaf, four peppercorns, a clove, a tablespoonful of

mushroom cuttings, and reduce half. In another saucepan put two

cups of Espagnole sauce, one cupful of tomato sauce, and half a cup

of game stock or essence. Reduce a third, and add the contents of

the first saucepan, boil the sauce a few minutes, and pass it

through a sieve. Warm it up in a bain-marie before using.

 

No. 13. Neapolitan Anchovy Sauce

Ingredients: Anchovies, fennel, flour, spices, parsley, marjoram,

garlic, lemon juice, vinegar, cream.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 9 –

 

Wash three anchovies in vinegar, bone and pound them in a mortar

with a teaspoonful of chopped fennel and a pinch of cinnamon. Then

mix in a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and marjoram, a squeeze of

lemon juice, a teaspoonful of flour, half a gill of boiled cream

and the bones of the fish for which you will use this sauce. Pass

through a sieve, add a clove of garlic with a cut in it, and boil.

If the fish you are using is cooked in the oven, add a little of

the liquor in which it has been cooked to the sauce. Take out the

garlic before serving. Instead of anchovies you may use caviar,

pickled tunny, or any other pickled fish.

 

No. 14. Roman Sauce (Salsa Agro-dolce)

Ingredients: Espagnole sauce, stock, burnt sugar, vinegar,

raisins, pine nuts or almonds.

Mix two spoonsful of burnt sugar with one of vinegar, and dilute

with a little good stock. Then add two cups of Espagnole sauce,

a few stoned raisins, and a few pinocchi* (pine nuts) or

shredded almonds. Keep this hot in a bain-marie, and serve with

cutlets, calf’s head or feet or tongue.

*The pinocchi which Italians use instead of almonds can be bought

in London when in season.

 

No. 15. Roman Sauce (another way)

Ingredients: Espagnole sauce, an onion, butter, flour, lemon,

herbs, nutmeg, raisins, pine nuts or almonds, burnt sugar.

Cut up a small bit of onion, fry it slightly in butter and a little

flour, add the juice of a lemon and a little of the peel grated, a

bouquet of herbs, a pinch of nutmeg, a few stoned raisins, shredded

almonds or pinocchi, and a tablespoonful of burnt sugar. Add this

to a good Espagnole, and warm it up in a bain-marie.

 

No. 16. Supreme Sauce

Ingredients: White sauce, fowl stock, butter.

Put three-quarters of a pint of white sauce into a saucepan, and

when it is nearly boiling add half a cup of concentrated fowl

stock. Reduce until the sauce is quite thick, and when about to

serve pass it through a tamis into a bain-marie and add two

tablespoonsful of cream.

 

 

– 10 –

 

No. 17. Pasta marinate (For masking Italian Frys)

Ingredients: Semolina flour, eggs, salt, butter (or olive oil),

vinegar, water.

Mix the following ingredients well together: two ounces of

semolina flour, the yolks of two eggs, a little salt, and two

ounces of melted butter. Add a glass of water so as to form a

liquid substance. At the last add the whites of two eggs beaten up

to a snow. This will make a good paste for masking meat, fish,

vegetables, or sweets which are to be fried in the Italian manner,

but if for meat or vegetables add a few drops of vinegar or a

little lemon juice.

 

No. 18. White Villeroy

Ingredients: Butter, flour, eggs, cream, nutmeg, white stock.

Make a light-coloured roux by frying two ounces of butter and two

ounces of flour, stir in some white stock and keep it very smooth.

Let it boil, and add the yolks of three eggs, mixed with two

tablespoonsful of cream and a pinch of nutmeg. Pass it through a

sieve and use for masking cutlets, fish, &c.

 

                                        Modern Italian Sauces

No. 1. Fish Sauce

Add one dessert-spoonful of the sauce to a quarter pint of melted

butter sauce.

 

No. 2. Sauce Piquante (for Meat, Fowl, Game, Rabbit, &c.)

One dessert-spoonful to a quarter pint of ordinary brown or white

stock. It may be thickened by a roux made by frying two ounces of

butter with two ounces of flour.

 

No. 3. Sauce for Venison, Hare, &c.

Two dessert-spoonsful of New Century Sauce to half a pint of game

gravy or sauce, and a small teaspoonful of red currant jelly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 11 –

 

No. 4. Tomato Sauce Piquante

Fry three medium-sized tomatoes in one and a half ounce of butter.

Pass this through a sieve, then boil it up in a bain-marie till it

thickens, and add one dessertspoonful of New Century Sauce.

 

No. 5. Sauce for Roast Pork, Ham, &c.

Add to any ordinary white or brown sauce one dessert-spoonful of

New Century Sauce and two of port or Burgundy if the sauce is

brown, two of Chablis if white.

 

No. 6. For masking Cutlets, &c.

Making a roux by frying two ounces of butter with two ounces of

flour, and add two tablespoonsful of boiling stock. Stir in one

dessert-spoonful of New Century Sauce. Let it get cold, and it

will then be quite firm and ready for masking cutlets, &c.

      

                                 Italian Soups

No. 1. Clear Soup

Ingredients: Stock meat, water, a bunch of herbs (thyme, parsley,

chervil, bay leaf, basil, marjoram), three carrots, three turnips,

three onions, three cloves stuck in the onions, one blade of mace.

Cut up three pounds of stock meat small and put it in a stock pot

with two quarts of cold water, three carrots, and three turnips cut

up, three onions with a clove stuck in each one, a bunch of herbs

and a blade of mace. Let it come to the boil and then draw it off,

at once skim off all the scum, and keep it gently simmering, and

occasionally add two or three tablespoonsful of cold water. Let it

simmer all day, and then strain it through a fine cloth.

Some of the liquor in which a calf’s head has been cooked, or even

a calf’s foot, will greatly improve a clear soup.

The stock should never be allowed to boil as long as the meat and

vegetables are in the stock pot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 12 –

  1. Zuppa Primaverile (Spring Soup)

Ingredients: Clear soup, vegetables.

Any fresh spring vegetables will do for this soup, but they must

all be cooked separately and put into the soup at the last minute.

It is best made with fresh peas, asparagus tips, and a few strips

of tarragon.

 

No. 3. Soup alla Lombarda

Ingredients: Clear soup, fowl forcemeat, Bechamel, peas,

lobster butter, eggs, asparagus.

Make a firm forcemeat of fowl and divide it into three parts, to

the first add two spoonsful of cream Bechamel, to the second four

spoonsful of puree of green peas, to the third two spoonsful of

lobster butter and the yolk of an egg; thus you will have the

Italian colours, red, white, and green. Butter a pie dish and make

little quenelles of the forcemeat. Just before serving boil them

for four minutes in boiling stock, take them out carefully and put

them in a warm soup tureen with two spoonsful of cooked green peas

and pour a very fresh clear soup over them. Hand little croutons

fried in lobster butter separately.

 

No. 4. Tuscan Soup

Ingredients: Stock, eggs.

Whip up three or four eggs, gradually add good stock to them, and

keep on whisking them up until they begin to curdle. Keep the soup

hot in a bain-marie.

 

No. 5. Venetian Soup

Ingredients: Clear soup, butter, flour, Parmesan, eggs.

Make a roux by frying two ounces of butter and two ounces of flour,

add an ounce of grated cheese and half a cup of good stock. Mix up

well so as to form a paste, and then take it off the fire and add

the yolks of four eggs, mix again and form the again and form the

paste into little quenelles. Boil these in a little soup, strain

off, put them into the tureen and pour a good clear soup over them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 13 –

No. 6. Roman Soup

Ingredients: Stock, butter, eggs, salt, crumb of bread, parsley,

nutmeg, flour, Parmesan.

Mix three and a half ounces of butter with two eggs and four ounces

of crumbs of bread soaked in stock, a little chopped parsley, salt,

and a pinch of nutmeg. Reduce this and add two tablespoonsful of

flour and one of grated Parmesan. Form this into little quenelles

and boil them in stock for a few minutes put them into a tureen and

pour a good clear soup over them.

 

No. 7. Soup alla Nazionale

Ingredients: Clear soup, savoury custard.

Make a savoury custard and divide it into three parts, one to be

left white, another coloured red with tomato, and the third green

with spinach. Put a layer of each in a buttered saucepan and cook

for about ten minutes, cut it into dice, so that you have the three

Italian colours (red, white, and green) together, then put the

custard into a soup tureen and pour a good clear soup over it.

 

No. 8. Soup alla Modanese

Ingredients: Stock, spinach, butter, salt, eggs, Parmesan,

nutmeg, croutons.

Wash one pound of spinach in five or six waters, then chop it very

fine and mix it with three ounces of butter, salt it and warm it

  1. Then let it get cold, pass through a hair sieve, and add two

eggs, a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan, and very little nutmeg.

Add this to some boiling stock in a copper saucepan, put on the

lid, and on the top put some hot coals so that the eggs may curdle

and help to thicken the soup. Serve with fried croutons.

 

No. 9. Crotopo Soup

Ingredients: Clear soup, veal, ham, eggs, salt, pepper, nutmeg,

rolls.

Pound half a pound of lean veal in a mortar, then add three ounces

of cooked ham with some fat in it, the yolk of an egg, salt,

pepper, and very little nutmeg. Pass through a sieve, cut some

small French rolls into slices, spread them with the above mixture,

and colour them in the oven. Then cut them in halves or quarters,

put them into a tureen, and just before serving pour a very good

clear soup over them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 14 –

 

No. 10. Soup all’Imperatrice

Ingredients: Breast of fowl, eggs, salt, pepper, ground rice,

nutmeg, clear stock.

Pound the breast of a fowl in a mortar, and add to it a teaspoonful

of ground rice, the yolk of an egg, salt, pepper, and a pinch of

nutmeg. Pass this through a sieve, form quenelles with it, and

pour a good clear soup over them.

 

No. 11. Neapolitan Soup

Ingredients: Fowl, potato flour, eggs, Bechamel sauce, peas,

asparagus, spinach, clear soup.

Mix a quarter pound of forcemeat of fowl with a tablespoonful of

potato flour, a tablespoonful of Bechamel sauce, and the

yolk of an egg; put this into a tube about the size round of an

ordinary macaroni; twenty minutes before serving squirt the

forcemeat into a saucepan with boiling stock, and nip off the

forcemeat as it comes through the pipe into pieces about an inch

and a half long. Let it simmer, and add boiled peas and asparagus

tips. If you like to have the fowl macaroni white and green, you

can colour half the forcemeat with a spoonful of spinach colouring.

Serve in a good clear soup.

 

No. 12. Soup with Risotto

Ingredients: Risotto, eggs, bread crumbs, clear or brown

soup.

If you have some good risotto left, you can use it up by making it

into little balls the size of small nuts. Egg and bread crumb and

fry them in butter; dry them and put them into a soup tureen with

hot soup. The soup may be either clear or brown.

 

No. 13. Soup alla Canavese

Ingredients: White stock, butter, onions, carrot, celery, tomato,

cauliflower, fat bacon, parsley, sage, Parmesan, salt, pepper.

Chop up half an onion, half a carrot, half a stick of celery, a

small bit of fat bacon, and fry them in two ounces of butter. Then

cover them with good white stock, boil for a few minutes, pass

through a sieve, and add two tablespoonsful of tomato puree. Then

blanch half a cauliflower in salted water, let it get cold, drain

all the water out of it, and break it up into little bunches and

put them into a stock pot with the stock, a small leaf of dried

sage, crumbled up, and a little chopped parsley, and let it all

boil; add a pinch of grated cheese and some pepper. Serve with

grated Parmesan handed separately

 

 

– 15 –

 

No. 14. Soup alla Maria Pia

Ingredients: White stock, eggs, butter, peas, white beans, carrot,

onion, leeks, celery, cream croutons.

Soak one pound of white beans for twelve hours, then put them into

a stock pot with a little salt, butter, and water, add a carrot, an

onion, two leeks, and a stick of celery, and simmer until the

vegetables are well cooked; then take out all the fresh vegetables,

drain the beans and pass them through a sieve, but first dilute

them with good stock. Put this puree into a stock pot with good

white stock, and when it has boiled keep it hot in a bain-marie

until you are about to serve; then mix the yolk of three eggs in a

cup of cream, and add this to the soup. Pour the soup into a warm

tureen, add some boiled green peas, and serve with fried croutons

handed separately.

 

No. 15. Zuppa d’ Erbe (Lettuce Soup)

Ingredients: Stock, sorrel, endive, lettuce, chervil, celery,

carrot, onion, French roll, Parmesan cheese.

Boil the following vegetables and herbs in very good stock for an

hour: Two small bunches of sorrel, a bunch of endive, a lettuce, a

small bunch of chervil, a stick of celery, a carrot and an onion,

all well washed and cut up. Then put some slices of toasted French

roll into a tureen and pour the above soup over them. Serve with

grated Parmesan handed separately.

 

No. 16. Zuppa Regina di Riso (Queen’s Soup)

Ingredients: Fowl stock, ground rice, milk, butter.

Put a tablespoonful of ground rice into a saucepan and gradually

add half a pint of milk, boil it gently for twelve minutes in a

bainmarie, but stir the whole time, so as to get it very smooth.

Just before serving add an ounce of butter, pass it through a

sieve, and mix it with good fowl stock.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 16 –

 

                                    Italian Minestre

Minestra is a thick broth, very much like hotch-potch, only

thicker. In Italy it is often served at the beginning of dinner

instead of soup; it also makes an excellent lunch dish. Two or

three tablespoonsful of No. 35 will be found a great improvement to

any of these minestre.

 

No. 1. A Condiment for Seasoning Minestre, &c.

Ingredients: Onions, celery, carrots, butter, salt, stock,

tomatoes, mushrooms.

Cut up an onion, a stick of celery, and a carrot; fry them in

butter and salt; add a few bits of cooked ham and veal cut up, two

mushrooms, and the pulp of a tomato. Cook for a quarter of an

hour, and add a little stock occasionally to keep it moist. Pass

through a sieve, and use for seasoning minestre, macaroni, rice,

&c. It should be added when the dish is nearly cooked.

 

No. 2. Minestra alla Casalinga

Ingredients: Rice, butter, stock, vegetables.

All sorts of vegetables will serve for this dish. Blanch them in

boiling salted water, then drain and fry them in butter. Add

plenty of good stock, and put them on a slow fire. Boil four

ounces of rice in stock, and when it is well done add the stock

with the vegetables. Season with two or three spoonsful of No. 35,

and serve with grated cheese handed separately.

 

No. 3. Minestra of Rice and Turnips

Ingredients: Rice, turnips, butter, gravy, tomatoes.

Cut three or four young turnips into slices and put them on a dish,

strew a little salt over them, cover them with another dish, and

let them stand for about two hours until the water has run out of

them. Then drain the slices, put them in a frying-pan and fry them

slightly in butter. Add some good gravy and mashed-up tomatoes,

and after having cooked this for a few minutes pour it into good

boiling stock. Add three ounces of well-washed rice, and boil for

half-an-hour.

Minestra loses its flavour if it is boiled too long. In Lombardy,

however, rice, macaroni, &c., are rarely boiled enough for English

tastes.

 

 

 

 

 

– 17 –

 

No. 4. Minestra alla Capucina

Ingredients: Rice, anchovies, butter, stock, and onions.

Scale an anchovy, pound it, and fry it in butter together with a

small onion cut across, and four ounces of boiled rice. Add a

little salt, and when the rice is a golden brown, take out the

onion and gradually add some good stock until the dish is of the

consistency of rice pudding.

 

No. 5. Minestra of Semolina

Ingredients: Stock, semolina, Parmesan.

Put as much stock as you require into a saucepan, and when it

begins to boil add semolina very gradually, and stir to keep it

from getting lumpy Cook it until the semolina is soft, and serve

with grated Parmesan handed separately. To one quart of soup use

three ounces of semolina.

 

No. 6. Minestrone alla Milanese

Ingredients: Rice or macaroni, ham, bacon, stock, all sorts of

vegetables.

Minestrone is a favourite dish in Lombardy when vegetables are

plentiful. Boil all sorts of vegetables in stock, and add bits of

bacon, ham, onions braized in butter, chopped parsley, a clove of

garlic with two cuts, and rice or macaroni. Put in those

vegetables first which require most cooking, and do not make the

broth too thin. Leave the garlic in for a quarter of an hour only.

 

No. 7. Minestra of Rice and Cabbage

Ingredients: Rice, cabbage, stock, ham, tomato sauce.

Cut off the stalk and all the hard outside leaves of a cabbage,

wash it and cut it up, but not too small, then drain and cook it in

good stock and add two ounces of boiled rice. This minestre is

improved by adding a little chopped ham and a few spoonsful of

tomato sauce.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 18 –

 

No. 8. Minestra of Rice and Celery

Ingredients: Celery, rice, stock.

Cut up a head of celery and remove all the green parts, then boil

it in good stock and add two ounces of rice, and boil till it is

well cooked.

 

No. 9. Anguilla alla Milanese (Eels).

Ingredients: Eels, butter, flour, stock, bay leaves, salt, pepper,

Chablis, a macedoine of vegetables.

Cut up a big eel and fry it in two ounces of butter, and when it is

a good colour add a tablespoonful of flour, about half a pint of

stock, a glass of Chablis, a bay leaf, pepper, and salt, and boil

till it is well cooked. In the meantime boil separately all sorts

of vegetables, such as carrots, cauliflower, celery, beans,

tomatoes, &c. Take out the pieces of eel, but keep them hot,

whilst you pass the liquor which forms the sauce through a sieve

and add the vegetables to this. Let them boil a little longer and

arrange them in a dish; place the pieces of eel on them and cover

with the sauce. It is most important that the eels should be

served very hot.

Any sort of fish will do as well for this dish.

 

No. 10. Filletti di Pesce alla Villeroy (Fillets of Fish)

Ingredients: Fish, flour, butter, Villeroy.

Any sort of fish will do, turbot, sole, trout, &c. Cut it into

fillets, flour them over and cook them in butter in a covered

stewpan; then make a Villeroy, dip the fillets into it and

fry them in clarified butter.

No. 11. Astachi all’Italiana (Lobster)

Ingredients: Lobsters, Velute sauce, Marsala, butter, forcemeat of

fish, olives, anchovy butter, button mushrooms, truffles, lemon,

crayfish, Italian sauce.

Two boiled lobsters are necessary. Cut all the flesh of one of the

lobsters into fillets and put them into a saucepan with half a cup

of Velute sauce and half a glass of Marsala, and boil for a

few minutes. Put a crouton of fried bread on an oval dish and

cover it with a forcemeat of fish, and on this place the whole

lobster, cover it with buttered paper, and put it in a moderate

oven just long enough to cook the forcemeat. Then make some

quenelles of anchovy butter, olives, and button mushrooms, mix them

with Italian sauce, and garnish the dish with them, and

round the crouton arrange the fillets of lobster with a garnish of

slices of truffle. Add a dessert-spoonful of crayfish butter and a

good squeeze of lemon juice to the sauce, and serve

 

 

– 19 –

 

No. 12. Baccala alla Giardiniera (Cod)

Ingredients: Cod or hake, carrots, turnips, butter, herbs.

Boil a piece of cod or hake and break it up into flakes, then cut

up two carrots and a turnip; boil them gently, and when they are

half boiled drain and put them into a stewpan with an ounce of

butter, half a teacup of boiling water, salt, and herbs. When they

are well cooked add the fish and serve. Fillets of lemon soles may

also be cooked this way.

 

No. 13. Triglie alla Marinara (Mullet)

Ingredients: Mullet, salt, pepper, onions, parsley, oil, water.

Cut a mullet into pieces and put it into a stewpan (with the lid

on), with salt, pepper, a cut-up onion, some chopped parsley, half

a wineglass of the finest olive oil and half a pint of water, and

in this cook the fish gently. Arrange the fillets on a dish, pour

a little of the broth over them, and add the onion and parsley.

Instead of mullet you can use cod, hake, whiting, lemon sole, &c.

 

No. 14. Mullet alla Tolosa

Ingredients: Mullet, butter, salt, onions, parsley, almonds,

anchovies, button mushrooms, tomatoes.

Cut off the fins and gills of a mullet, put it in a fireproof dish

with two ounces of butter and salt. Cut up a small bit of onion, a

sprig of parsley, a few blanched almonds, one anchovy, and a few

button mushrooms, previously softened in hot water, and put them

over the fish and bake for twenty minutes Then add two

tablespoonsful of tomato sauce or puree, and when cooked serve. If

you like, use sole instead of mullet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 20 –

 

No. 15. Mullet alla Triestina

Ingredients: Mullet (or sole or turbot), butter, salt half a

lemon, Chablis.

Put the fish in a fireproof dish with one and a half ounces of

butter, salt, a squeeze of lemon juice, and half a glass of

Chablis. Put it on a very, slow fire and turn the fish when

necessary. When it is cooked serve in the dish.

 

No. 16. Whiting alla Genovese

Ingredients: Whiting, butter, pepper, salt, bay leaf claret,

parsley, onions, garlic capers, vinegar, Espagnole sauce,

mushrooms, anchovies.

Put one or two whiting into a stewpan with two ounces of butter,

salt, pepper, two bay leaves, and a glass of claret or Burgundy;

cook on a hot fire and turn the fish when necessary. Have ready

beforehand a remoulade sauce made in the following manner: Put in

a saucepan 1 1/2 ounces of butter, half a teaspoonful of chopped

parsley, half an onion, a clove of garlic (with one cut), four

capers, one anchovy, all chopped up except the garlic. Then add

three tablespoonsful of vinegar and reduce the sauce. Add two

glasses of Espagnole sauce and a little good stock; boil it

all up (take out the garlic and bay leaves) and pass through a

sieve, then pour it over the whiting. Boil it all again for a few

minutes, and before serving garnish with a few button mushrooms

cooked separately. The remoulade sauce will be much better if made

some hours beforehand.

 

No. 17. Merluzzo in Bianco (Cod)

Ingredients: Cod or whiting, salt, onions, parsley, cloves,

turnips, marjoram, chervil, milk.

Boil gently in a big cupful of salted water two onions, one turnip,

a pinch of chopped parsley, chervil, and marjoram and four cloves.

After half an hour pass this through a sieve (but first take out

the cloves), and add an equal quantity of milk and a little cream,

and in this cook the fish and serve with the sauce over it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 21 –

 

No. 18. Merluzzo in Salamoia (Cod)

Ingredients: Cod, hake, whiting or red mullet, onions, parsley,

mint, marjoram, turnips, mushrooms, chervil, cloves, salt, milk,

cream, eggs.

Put a salt-spoonful of salt, two onions, a little parsley,

marjoram, mint, chervil, a turnip, a mushroom, and the heads of two

cloves into a stewpan and simmer in a cupful of milk for half an

hour, then let all the ingredients settle at the bottom, and pass

the broth through a hair sieve, and add to it an equal quantity of

milk or cream, and in it cook your fish on a slow fire. When the

fish is quite cooked, pour off the sauce, but leave a little on the

fish to keep it warm; reduce the rest in a bain-marie; stir all

the time, so that the milk may not curdle. Thicken the sauce with

the yolk of an egg, and when about to serve pour it over the fish.

 

No. 19. Baccala in Istufato (Haddock)

Ingredients: Haddock or lemon sole, carrots, anchovies, lemon,

pepper, butter, onions, flour, white wine, stock.

Stuff a haddock (or filleted lemon sole) with some slices of carrot

which have been masked with a paste made of pounded anchovies, very

little chopped lemon peel, salt and pepper. Then fry an onion with

two cuts across it in butter. Take out the onion as soon as it has

become a golden colour, flour the fish and put it in the butter,

and when it has been well fried on both sides pour a glass of

Marsala over it, and when it is all absorbed add a cup of fowl or

veal stock and let it simmer for half an hour, then skim and reduce

the sauce, pour it over the fish and serve.

 

No. 20. Naselli con Piselli (Whiting)

Ingredients: Whiting, onions, parsley, peas, tomatoes, butter,

Parmesan, Bechamel sauce.

Cut a big whiting into two or three pieces and fry them slightly in

butter, add a small bit of onion, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley

and fry for a few minutes more. Then add some peas which have been

cooked in salted water, three tablespoonsful of Bechamel sauce,

and three of tomato puree, and cook all together on a moderate

fire.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 22 –

 

No. 21. Ostriche alla Livornese (Oysters)

Ingredients: Oysters, parsley, shallot, anchovies, fennel pepper,

bread crumbs, cream, lemon.

Detach the oysters from their shells and put then into china shells

with their own liquor. Have ready a dessert-spoonful of parsley,

shallot, anchovy and very little fennel, add a tablespoonful of

bread crumbs and a little pepper, and mix the whole with a little

cream. Put some of this mixture on each oyster, and then bake them

in a moderate fire for a quarter of an hour. At the last minute

add a squeeze of lemon juice to each oyster and serve on a folded

napkin.

 

No. 22. Ostriche alla Napolitana (Oysters)

Ingredients: Oysters, parsley, celery, thyme, pepper, garlic, oil,

lemon.

Prepare the oysters as above, but rub each shell with a little

garlic. Put on each oyster a mixture made of chopped parsley, a

little thyme, pepper, and bread crumbs. Then pour a few drops of

oil on each shell, put them on the gridiron on an open fire, grill

for a few minutes, and add a little lemon juice before serving.

 

No. 23. Ostriche alla Veneziana (Oysters)

Ingredients: Oysters, butter, shallots, truffles, lemon juice,

forcemeat of fish.

Take several oysters out of their shells and cook them in butter, a

little chopped shallot, and their own liquor, add a little lemon

juice and then put in each of the deeper shells a layer of

forcemeat made of fish and chopped truffles, then an oyster or two,

and over this again another layer of the forcemeat, cover up with

the top shell and put them in a fish kettle and steam them. Then

remove the top shell and arrange the shells with the oysters on a

napkin and serve.

 

No. 24. Pesci diversi alla Casalinga (Fish)

Ingredients: Any sort of fish, celery, parsley, carrots, garlic,

onion, anchovies, almonds, capers, mushrooms, butter, salt, pepper,

flour, tomatoes.

Chop up a stick of celery, a sprig of parsley, a carrot, an onion.

Pound up an anchovy in brine (well cleaned, boned, and scaled),

four shredded almonds, three capers and two mushrooms. Put all

this into a saucepan with one ounce of butter, salt and pepper, and

fry for a few minutes, then add a few spoonsful of hot water and a

tablespoonful of flour and boil gently for ten minutes, put in the

fish and cook it until it is done. If you like, you may add a

little tomato sauce.

 

 

– 23 –

 

No. 25. Pesce alla Genovese (Sole or Turbot)

Ingredients: Fish (sole, mullet, or turbot), butter, salt, onion,

garlic, carrots, celery, parsley, nutmeg, pepper, spice, mushrooms,

tomatoes, flour, anchovies.

Fry an onion slightly in one and a half ounces of butter, add a

small cut-up carrot, half a stick of celery, a sprig of parsley,

and a salt anchovy (scaled), which will dissolve in the butter.

Into this put the fish cut up in pieces, a pinch of spice and

pepper, and let it simmer for a few minutes, then add two cut-up

mushrooms, a tomato mashed up, and a little flour. Mix all

together, and cook for twenty minutes.

 

No. 26. Sogliole in Zimino (Sole)

Ingredients: Sole, onion, beetroot, butter, celery, tomato sauce

or white wine.

Cut up a small onion and fry it slightly in one ounce of butter,

then add some slices of beetroot (well-washed and drained), and a

little celery cut up; to this add fillets of sole or haddock, salt

and pepper. Boil on a moderate on the fish kettle. When the

beetroot is nearly cooked add two tablespoonsful of tomato puree

and boil till all is well cooked. Instead of the tomato you may

use half a glass of Chablis.

 

No. 27. Sogliole al tegame (Sole)

Ingredients: Sole (or mullet), butter, anchovies, parsley, garlic,

capers, eggs.

Put an ounce of butter and an anchovy in a saucepan together with a

sole or mullet. Fry lightly for a few minutes, then strew a little

pepper and chopped parsley over it, put in a clove of garlic with

one cut, and cook for half an hour, but turn the fish over when one

side is sufficiently done. A few minutes before taking it off the

fire add three capers and stir in the yolk of an egg at the last

minute. Do not leave the garlic in more than five minutes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 24 –

 

No. 28. Sogliole alla Livornese (Sole)

Ingredients: Sole, butter, garlic, pepper, salt, tomatoes, fennel.

Fillet a sole and put it in a saute-pan with one and a half ounces

of butter and a clove of garlic with one cut in it, then sprinkle

over it a little chopped fennel, salt and pepper, and let it cook

for a few minutes. Turn over the fillets w hen they are

sufficiently cooked on one side, take out the garlic and cover the

fish with a puree of tomatoes at the last.

 

No. 29. Sogliole alla Veneziana (Sole)

Ingredients: Sole, anchovies, butter, bacon, onion, stock,

Chablis, salt, nutmeg, parsley, Spanish olives, one bay leaf.

Fillet a sole and interlard each piece with a bit of anchovy. Tie

up the fillets and put them in a saute-pan with two ounces of

butter, a slice of bacon or ham, and a few small slices of onion.

Cover half over with good stock and a glass of Chablis, and add

salt, a pinch of nutmeg, a bunch of parsley, and a bay leaf. Cover

with buttered paper, and cook on a slow fire for about an hour.

Drain the fish, pass the liquor through a sieve, reduce it to the

consistency of a thick sauce, and pour it over the fish. Garnish

each fillet with a Spanish olive stuffed with anchovy.

 

No. 30. Sogliole alla Parmigiana (Sole).*

Ingredients: Sole, Parmesan, butter, cream, cayenne.

Fillet a sole and wipe each piece with a clean cloth, then place

them in a fireproof dish, and put a small piece of butter on each

fillet. Then make a good white sauce, and mix it with two

tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan and half a gill of cream. Cover

the fish well with the sauce, and bake in a moderate oven for

twenty minutes.

*Lemon soles may be used in any of the above-named dishes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 25 –

 

No. 31. Salmone alla Genovese (Salmon)

Ingredients: Salmon, Genoese sauce, butter, lemon.

Boil a bit of salmon, drain it, take off the skin, and mask it with

a Genoese sauce, to which add a spoonful of the water in which the

salmon has been boiled, and at the last add a pat of fresh butter

and a squeeze of lemon juice.

 

No. 32. Salmone alla Perigo (Salmon)

Ingredients: Salmon, forcemeat of fish, truffles, butter, Madeira,

croutons of bread, crayfish tails, anchovy butter.

Cut a bit of salmon into well shaped fillets, and marinate them in

lemon juice and a bunch of herbs for two hours, wipe them, put a

layer of forcemeat of fish over each, and decorate them with slices

of truffle. When put them into a well-buttered saute-pan with half

a cup of stock and a glass of Madeira or Marsala, cover with

buttered paper, and put them into a moderate oven for twenty

minutes. Arrange the fillets in a circle on croutons of bread,

garnish the centre with crayfish tails and with truffles cut into

dice, a quarter of a pint of Velute sauce, and half a

teaspoonful of anchovy butter. Glaze the fillets and serve.

 

No. 33. Salmone alla giardiniera (Salmon)

Ingredients: Salmon, forcemeat of fish, vegetables, butter,

Bechamel, and Espagnole sauce.

Prepare the fillets as above, and put on each a layer of

white forcemeat of fish. Cook a macedoine of vegetables

separately, and garnish each fillet with some of it, then cook them

in a covered stewpan Put a crouton of bread in an entree dish and

garnish it with cooked peas, mixed with Bechamel sauce,

stock, and butter. Around this place the fillets of fish, leaving

the centre with the peas uncovered. Pour some rich Espagnole sauce

round the fillets and serve.

 

No. 34. Salmone alla Farnese (Salmon)

Ingredients: Salmon, oil, lemon juice, thyme, salt, pepper,

nutmeg, mayonnaise sauce, lobster butter, gelatine, Velute sauce,

olives, anchovy butter, white truffles, mushrooms in oil, crayfish.

Boil a piece of salmon, and when cold cut it into fillets and

marinate them for two hours in oil, lemon juice, salt, thyme

pepper, and nutmeg. Then make a good mayonnaise and add to it some

lobster butter mixed with a little dissolved gelatine and Velute

sauce. Wipe the fillets and arrange them in a circle on a

dish, and pour the mayonnaise over them. Then decorate the border

of the dish with aspic jelly, and in the centre put some stoned

Spanish olives stuffed with anchovy butter, truffles, mushrooms in

oil, and crayfish tails.

 

– 26 –

 

No. 35. Salmone alla Santa Fiorentina (Salmon)

Ingredients: Salmon, eggs, mayonnaise, parsley, flour.

Marinate a piece of boiled salmon for an hour; take out the bone

and cut the fish into fillets, wipe them, roll them in flour and

dip them in eggs beaten up or in mayonnaise sauce, and fry them a

good colour. Arrange in a circle on the dish, garnish with fried

parsley, and serve with Dutch or mayonnaise sauce. Any fillets of

fish may be cooked in this manner.

No. 36. Salmone alla Francesca (Salmon)

Ingredients: Salmon, butter, onions, parsley, salt, pepper,

nutmeg, stock, Chablis, Espagnole sauce mushrooms, anchovy

butter, lemon.

Put a firm piece of salmon in a stewpan with one and a half ounces

of butter, an onion cut up, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley

(blanched), salt, pepper, very little nutmeg, a cup of stock, and a

glass of Chablis. Cook for half an hour over a hot fire, turn the

salmon occasionally, and if it gets dry, add a cup of Espagnole

sauce. Let it boil until sufficiently cooked, and then put it on a

dish. Into the sauce put four mushrooms cooked in white sauce,

half a teaspoonful of anchovy butter and a little lemon juice.

Pour the sauce over the salmon and serve.

No. 37. Fillets of Salmon in Papiliotte

Ingredients: Salmon, oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper, nutmeg,

herbs.

Cut a piece of salmon into fillets, marinate them in oil, lemon

juice, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and herbs for two hours. Wipe and put

them into paper souffle cases with a little oil, butter, and herbs.

Cook them on a gridiron, and serve with a sauce piquante made in

the following manner: Half a pint of rich Espagnole sauce

and a dessert-spoonful of ‘New Century sauce’, warmed up in a bain-

marie.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 27 –

 

                      Beef, Mutton, Veal and Lamb

No. 1. Manzo alla Certosina (Fillet of Beef)

Ingredients: Fillet of beef or rump steak, bacon, olive oil, salt,

nutmeg, anchovies, herbs, stock, garlic.

Put a piece of very tender rump steak or fillet of beef into a

stewpan with two slices of fat bacon and three teaspoonsful of the

finest olive oil; season with salt and a tiny pinch of nutmeg; let

it cook uncovered, and turn the meat over occasionally. When it is

nicely browned add an anchovy minced and mixed with chopped herbs,

and a small clove of garlic with one cut across it. Then cover the

whole with good stock, put the cover on the stewpan, and when it is

all sufficiently cooked, skim the grease off the sauce, pass it

through a sieve, and pour it over the beef. Leave the garlic in

for five minutes only.

 

No. 2. Stufato alla Florentina (Stewed Beef)

Ingredients: Beef, mutton, or veal, onions, rosemary, Burgundy,

tomatoes, stock, potatoes, butter, garlic.

Cut up an onion and three leaves of rosemary, fry them slightly in

an ounce of butter, then add meat (beef, mutton, or veal), cut into

fair-sized pieces, salt it and fry it a little, then pour half a

glass of Burgundy over it, and add two tablespoonsful of tomato

conserve, or better still, fresh tomatoes in a puree. Cover up the

stewpan and cook gently, stir occasionally, and add some stock if

the stew gets too dry. If you like to add potatoes, cut them up,

put them in the stewpan an hour before serving, and cook them with

the meat. A clove of garlic with one cut may be added for five

minutes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 28 –

 

No. 3. Coscia di Manzo al Forno (Rump Steak)

Ingredients: Rump steak, ham, salt, pepper, spice, fat bacon,

onion, stock, white wine.

Lard a bit of good rump steak with bits of lean ham, and season it

with salt, pepper, and a little spice, slightly brown it in butter

for a few minutes, then cover it with three or four slices of fat

bacon and put it into a stewpan with an onion chopped up, a cup of

good stock, and half a glass of white wine; cook with the cover on

the stewpan for about an hour. You may add a clove of garlic for

ten minutes.

 

No. 4. Polpettine alla Salsa Piccante (Beef Olives)

Ingredients: Beef steak, butter, onions, stock, sausage meat.

Cut some thin slices of beef steak, and on each place a little

forcemeat of fowl or veal, to which add a little sausage meat:

roll up the slices of beef and cook them with butter and onions,

and when they are well browned pour some stock over them, and let

them absorb it. Serve with a tomato sauce, or sauce

piquante made with a quarter of a pint of rich Espagnole,

and a dessert-spoonful of New Century sauce (see No. 71 note).

 

No. 5. Stufato alla Milanese (Stewed Beef)

Ingredients: Rump steak, bacon, ham, salt, pepper, cinnamon,

cloves, butter, onions, Burgundy.

Beat a piece of rump steak to make it tender and lard it well, cut

up some bits of fat bacon and dust them over with salt, pepper, and

a tiny pinch of cinnamon, and put them on the steak. Stick three

cloves into the steak, then put it into a stewpan, add a little of

the fat of the beef chopped up, an ounce of butter, an onion cut

up, and some bits of lean ham. Put in sufficient stock to cover

the steak, add a glass of Burgundy, and stew gently until it is

cooked.

 

No. 6. Manzo Marinato Arrosto (Marinated Beef)

Ingredients: Beef, salt, larding bacon, Burgundy, vinegar, spices,

herbs, flour.

Beat a piece of rump steak, or fillet to make it tender; sprinkle

it well with salt and some chopped herbs, and leave it for an hour;

then lard it and marinate it as follows: Half a pint of red wine

(Australian Harvest Burgundy is best), half a glass of vinegar, a

pinch of spice, and a bouquet of herbs; leave it in this for

twenty-four hours then take it out, drain it well sprinkle it with

flour, and roast it for twenty minutes before a clear fire, braize

it till quite tender, then press and glaze it. The thin end of a

sirloin is excellent cooked this way. Serve cold.

 

 

– 29 –

 

No. 7. Manzo con sugo di Barbabietole (Fillet of Beef)

Ingredients: Beef, beetroot, salt.

Cut up three raw beetroots put them into an earthen ware pot and

cover them with water. Keep them in some warm place, and allow

them to ferment for five, six, or eight days according to the

season; the froth at the top of the water will indicate the

necessary fermentation. The take out the pieces of beetroot, skim

off all the froth, and into the fermented liquor put a good piece

of tender rump steak or fillet with some salt. Braize for four

hours and serve.

 

No. 8. Manzo in Insalata (Marinated Beef)

Ingredients: Beef, oil, salt, pepper, vinegar, parsley, capers,

mushrooms, olives, vegetables.

Cook a fillet of beef (or the thin end of a sirloin), which has

been previously marinated for two days in oil, salt, pepper,

vinegar, and chopped parsley. When cold press and glaze it,

garnish it with capers, mushrooms preserved in vinegar or gherkins,

olives, and any kind of vegetables marinated like the beef. Serve

cold.

 

No. 9. Filetto di Bue con Pistacchi (Fillets of Beef with

Pistacchios)

Ingredients: Fillet of beef, oil, salt, flour, pistacchio nuts,

gravy.

Cut a piece of tender beef into little fillets, and put a them in a

stewpan with a tablespoonful of olive oil and salt. After they

have cooked for a few minutes, powder them with flour, and strew

over each fillet some chopped pistacchio nuts. Add a few spoonsful

of very good boiling gravy, and cook for another half-hour.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 30 –

 

No. 10. Scalopini di Riso (Beef with Risotto)

Ingredients: Rump steak, butter, rice, truffles, tongue, stock,

mushrooms.

Slightly stew a bit of rump steak with bits of tongue and

mushrooms; let it get cold, and cut it into scallops. Butter a pie

dish, and garnish the bottom of it with cooked tongue and slices of

cooked truffle, then over this put a layer of well-cooked and

seasoned risotto, then a layer of the scallops of beef,

and then another layer of risotto. Heat in a bain-marie, and turn

out of the pie dish, and serve with a very good sauce poured round

it.

 

No. 11. Tenerumi alla Piemontese (Tendons of Veal)

Ingredients: Tendons of veal, fowl forcemeat, truffles, risotto

, a cock’s comb, tongue.

Tendons of veal are that part of the breast which lies near the

ribs, and forms an opaque gristly substance. Partly braize a fine

bit of this joint, and press it between two plates till cold. Cut

it up into fillets, and on each spread a thin layer of fowl

forcemeat, and decorate with slices of truffle. Put the fillets

into a stewpan, cover them with very good stock, and boil till the

forcemeat and truffles are quite cooked. Prepare a risotto

all’Italiana, put it on a dish and decorate it with bits

of red tongue cut into shapes, and in the centre put a whole cooked

truffle and a white cock’s comb, both on a silver skewer. Place

the tendons of veal round the dish. Add a good Espagnole sauce

and serve.

If you like, leave out the risotto and serve the veal with

Espagnole sauce mixed with cooked peas and chopped truffle.

 

No. 12. Bragiuole di Vitello (Veal Cutlets)

Ingredients: Veal, salt, pepper, butter, bacon, carrots, flour,

Chablis, water, lemon.

Cut a bit of veal steak into pieces the size of small cutlets, salt

and pepper them, and put them in a wide low stewpan. Add two

ounces of butter, a cut-up carrot, and some bits of bacon also cut

  1. When they are browned, add a spoonful of flour, half a glass

of Chablis, and half a glass of water, and cook on a slow fire for

half an hour, then take out the cutlets, reduce the sauce, and pass

it through a sieve. Put it back on the fire and add an ounce of

butter and a good squeeze of lemon, and when hot pour it over the

cutlets.

 

 

 

 

– 31 –

 

No. 13. Costolette alla Manza (Veal Cutlets)

Ingredients: Veal cutlets (fowl or turkey cutlets), forcemeat,

truffles, mushrooms, tongue, parsley, pasta marinate.

Cut a few horizontal lines along your cutlets, and on each put a

little veal or fowl forcemeat, to which add in equal quantities

chopped truffles, tongue, mushrooms, and a little parsley. Over

this put a thin layer of pasta marinate, and fry the cutlets on a

slow fire.

 

No. 14. Vitello alla Pellegrina (Breast of Veal)

Ingredients: Breast of veal, butter, onions, sugar, stock, red

wine, mushrooms, bacon, salt, flour, bay leaf.

Roast a bit of breast of veal, then glaze over two Spanish onions

with butter and a little sugar, and when they arc a good colour

pour a teacup of stock and a glass of Burgundy over them, and add a

few mushrooms, a bay leaf, some salt, and a few bits of bacon.

When the mushrooms and onions are cooked, skim off the fat and

thicken the sauce with a little flour and butter fried together;

pour it over the veal and put the onions and mushrooms round the

dish.

 

No. 15. Frittura Piccata al Marsala (Fillet of Veal)

Ingredients: Veal, butter, Marsala, stock, lemon, bacon.

Cut a tender bit of veal steak into small fillets, cut off all the

fat and stringy parts, flour them and fry them in butter. When

they are slightly browned add a glass of Marsala and a teacup of

good stock, and fry on a very hot fire, so that the fillets may

remain tender. Take them off the fire, put a little roll of fried

bacon on each, add a squeeze of lemon juice, and serve.

 

No. 16. Polpettine Distese (Veal Olives)

Ingredients: Veal steak, butter, bread, eggs, pistacchio nuts,

spice, parsley.

Cut some slices of veal steak very thin as for veal olives, and

spread them out in a well-buttered stewpan. On each slice of veal

put half a spoonful of the following mixture: Pound some crumb of

bread and mix it with a whole egg; add a little salt, some

pistacchio nuts, herbs, and parsley chopped up, and a little

butter. Roll up each slice of veal, cover with a sheet of buttered

paper, put the cover on the stewpan and cook for three-quarters of

an hour in two ounces of butter on a slow fire. Thicken the sauce

with a dessert-spoonful of flour and butter fried together

 

 

 

 

– 32 –

 

.No. 17. Coste di Vitello Imboracciate (Ribs of Veal)

Ingredients: Ribs of veal, butter, eggs, Parmesan, bread crumbs,

parsley.

Cut all the sinews from a piece of neck or ribs of veal, cover the

meat with plenty of butter and half cook it on a slow fire, then

let it get cold. When cold, egg it over and roll it in bread

crumbs mixed with a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan; fry in butter

and serve with a garnish of fried parsley and a rich sauce. A

dessert-spoonful of New Century sauce mixed with quarter of a pint

of good thick stock makes a good sauce. (See No. 226.)

 

No. 18. Costolette di Montone alla Nizzarda (Mutton Cutlets)

Ingredients: Mutton cutlets, butter, olives, mushrooms, cucumbers.

Trim as many cutlets as you require, and marinate them in vinegar,

herbs, and spice for two hours. Before cooking wipe them well and

then saute them in clarified butter, and when they are well

coloured on both sides and resist the pressure of the finger, drain

off the butter and pour four tablespoonsful of Espagnole sauce

with a teaspoonful of vinegar and six bruised pepper corns over

them. Arrange them on a dish, putting between each cutlet a

crouton of fried bread, and garnish with olives stuffed with

chopped mushrooms and with slices of fried cucumber.

 

No. 19. Petto di Castrato all’Italiana (Breast of Mutton)

Ingredients: Breast of mutton, veal, forcemeat, eggs, herbs,

spice, Parmesan.

Stuff a breast of mutton with veal forcemeat mixed with two eggs

beaten up, herbs, a little spice, and a tablespoonful of grated

Parmesan, braize it in stock with a bunch of herbs and two onions.

Serve with Italian sauce.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 33 –

 

No. 20. Petto di Castrato alla Salsa piccante (Breast of Mutton)

Ingredients: Same as No. 90.

When the breast of mutton has been stuffed and cooked as above, let

it get cold and then cut it into fillets, flour them over, fry in

butter, and serve with tomato sauce piquante, or one

dessert-spoonful of New Century sauce in a quarter pint of good

stock or gravy.

 

No. 21. Tenerumi d’Agnello alla Villeroy (Tendons of Lamb)

Ingredients: Tendons of lamb, eggs, bread crumbs, truffles,

butter, stock, Villeroy sauce.

Slightly cook the tendons (the part of the breast near the ribs) of

lamb, press them between two dishes till cold, then cut into a good

shape and dip them into a Villeroy sauce egg and bread-

crumb, and saute them in butter. When about to serve, put them in

a dish with very good clear gravy. A teaspoonful of chopped mint

and a tablespoonful of chopped truffles mixed with the bread crumbs

will be a great improvement.

 

No. 22. Tenerumi d’ Agnello alla Veneziana (Tendons of Lamb)

Ingredients: Tendons of lamb, butter, parsley, onions, stock.

Fry the tendons of lamb in butter together with a teaspoonful of

chopped parsley and an onion. Serve with good gravy.

 

No. 23. Costolette d’ Agnello alla Costanza (Lamb Cutlets)

Ingredients: Lamb cutlets, butter, stock, cocks’ combs, fowl’s

liver, mushrooms.

Fry as many lamb cutlets as you require very sharply in butter,

drain off the butter and replace it with some very good stock or

gravy. Make a ragout of cocks’ combs, bits of fowl’s liver and

mushrooms all cut up; add a white sauce with half a gill of cream

mixed with it, and with this mask the cutlets, and saute them for

fifteen minutes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 34 –

Sweetbread, Calf’s Head and Liver

No. 1. Timballo alla Romana

Ingredients: Cold fowl, game, or sweetbread, butter, lard, flour,

Parmesan, truffles, macaroni, onions, cream.

Make a light paste of two ounces of butter, two of lard, and half a

pound of flour, and put it in the larder for two hours. In the

meantime boil a little macaroni and let it get cold, then line a

plain mould with the paste, and fill it with bits of cut-up fowl,

or game, or sweetbread, bits of truffle cut in small dice, grated

Parmesan, and a little chopped onion. Put these ingredients in

alternately, and after each layer add enough cream to moisten.

Fill the mould quite full, then roll out a thin paste for the top

and press it well together at the edges to keep the cream from

boiling out. Bake it in a moderate oven for an hour and a half,

turn it out of the mould, and serve with a rich brown sauce.

Decorate the top with bits of red tongue and truffles cut into

shapes or with a little chopped pistacchio nut.

 

No. 2. Timballo alla Lombarda

Ingredients: Macaroni, fowl or game, eggs, stock, Velute sauce,

tongue, butter, truffles.

Butter a smooth mould, then boil some macaroni, but take care that

it is in long pieces. When cold, take the longest bits and line

the bottom of the mould, making the macaroni go in circles; and

when you come to the end of one piece, join on the next as closely

as possible until the whole mould is lined; paint it over now and

then with white of egg beaten up; then mask the whole inside with a

thin layer of forcemeat of fowl, which should also be put on with

white of egg to make it adhere; then cut up the bits of macaroni

which remain, warm them up in some good fowl stock and Velute sauce

much reduced, a little melted butter, some bits of truffle cut into

dice, tongue, fowl, or game also cut up in pieces. When the mould

is full, put on another layer of forcemeat, steam for an hour, then

turn out and serve with a very good brown sauce.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 35 –

 

No. 3. Lingua alla Visconti (Tongue)

Ingredients: Tongue, glaze, bread, spinach, white grapes, port.

Soak a smoked tongue in fresh water for forty-eight hours, then

boil it till it is tender. Peel off the skin, cut the tongue in

rather thick slices, and glaze them. Prepare an oval border of

fried bread, cover it with spinach about two inches thick, and on

this arrange the slices of tongue. Fill in the centre of the dish

with white grapes cooked in port or muscat.

 

No. 4. Lingua di Manzo al Citriuoli (Tongue with Cucumber)

Ingredients: Ox tongue, salt, pepper, nutmeg, parsley, bacon, veal,

carrots, onions, thyme, bay leaves, cloves, stock.

Gently boil an ox tongue until you can peel off the skin, then lard

it, season it with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and chopped parsley, and

boil it with some bits of bacon, ham, veal, a carrot, an onion, two

bay leaves, thyme and two cloves. Pour some good stock over it and

let it simmer gently until it is cooked. Put the tongue on a dish

and garnish it with slices of fried cucumber. Boil the cucumber

for five minutes before you fry it, to take away the bitter taste.

Serve the tongue with a sauce piquante, made with one dessert-

spoonful of New Century sauce to a quarter pint of good Espangole

sauce.

 

No. 5. Lingue di Castrato alla Cuciniera (Sheep’s Tongues)

Ingredients: Sheep’s tongues, bacon, beef, onions, herbs, spice,

eggs, butter, flour.

Cook three or four sheep’s tongues in good stock, and add some

slices of bacon, bits of beef, two onions, a bunch of herbs, and a

pinch of spice. Let them get cold, flour them and mask them with

egg beaten up and fry quickly in butter. Serve with Italian sauce

No. 6. Lingue di Vitello all’Italiana (Calves’ Tongues)

Ingredients: Calves’ tongues, salt, butter, stock, water, glaze,

potatoes, ham, truffles, sauce piquante.

Rub a good handful of salt into two or three calves’ tongues and

leave them for twenty-four hours, then wash off all the salt and

soak them in fresh water for two hours. Stew them gently till

tender, take them out, skin and braize them in butter and good

stock for half an hour. Let them get cold and cut them into slices

about half an inch thick; put the slices into a buttered saute-pan

and cover them with a good thick glaze; let them get quite hot and

then arrange them on a border of potatoes, and garnish each slice

with round shapes of cooked ham and truffle. Fill the centre with

any vegetables you like; fried cucumber is excellent, but if you

use it do not forget to boil it for five minutes before you fry it

to take away the bitter taste. Serve with a sauce piquante.

 

 

– 36 –

 

No. 7. Ateletti alla Sarda

Ingredients: Veal or fowl, ox palates, stock, tongue, truffles,

butter, mushrooms, sweetbread.

Soak two ox palates in salted water for four hours, then boil them

until the rough skin comes off, and cook them in good stock for six

hours, press them between two plates and let them get cold. Roll

some forcemeat of veal or fowl in flour, cut it into small pieces

about the size of a cork, boil them in salted water, let them get

cold and cut them into circular pieces. Cut the ox palates also

into circular pieces the same size as the bits of forcemeat, then

thinner circles of cooked tongue and truffles. String these pieces

alternately on small silver skewers. Reduce to half its quantity a

pint of Velute sauce, and add the cuttings of the truffles,

mushroom trimmings, bits of sweetbread, and a squeeze of lemon

juice. Let it get cold and then mask the atelets (or skewers with

the forcemeat, &c.) with it, and fry them quickly in butter. Fry a

large oval crouton of bread, scoop out the centre and fill it with

fried slices of cucumber and truffles boiled in a little Chablis.

Stick the skewers into the crouton and pour the sauce round it.

For a maigre dish use fillets of fish, truffles, mushrooms, and

Bechamel sauce. The cucumber should be boiled for five

minutes before it is fried.

 

No. 8. Ateletti alla Genovese

Ingredients: Veal, sweetbread, calf’s brains, ox palates,

mushrooms, fonds d’artichauds, cocks’ combs, eggs, Parmesan, bread

crumbs.

Cook two ox palates as in the last recipe, then take equal

quantities of veal steak, sweetbread, calf’s brains, equal

quantities of mushrooms, fonds d’artichauds, and cocks’ combs. Fry

them all in butter except the palates, but be careful to put the

veal in first, as it requires longer cooking; the brains should go

in last. Then put all these ingredients on a cutting board and add

the palates (cooked separately); cut them all into pieces of equal

size, either round or square, but keep the ingredients separate,

and string them alternately on silver skewers, as in the last

recipe. Then pound up all the cuttings and add a little crumb of

bread soaked in stock, the yolks of three eggs, the whites of two

well beaten up, two dessert-spoonsful of grated Parmesan, salt to

taste, and chopped truffles. Mix all this well together and mask

the atelets with it; egg and bread crumb them and fry in butter.

When they are a good colour, serve with fried parsley.

 

 

 

 

– 37 –

 

No. 9. Testa di Vitello alla Sorrentina (Calf’s Head)

Ingredients: Calf’s head, veal, sweetbread, truffles, mushrooms,

pistacchio nuts, eggs, herbs, spice, stock, bacon, ham.

Boil a half calf’s head well, and when it is half cold, bone it and

fill it with a stuffing of veal, the calf’s brains, sweetbread,

truffles, mushrooms, pistacchio nuts, the yolks of two eggs, herbs,

and a little spice. Then stitch it up and braize it in good stock,

with some slices of bacon, ham, and a bunch of herbs. Serve with

brain sauce mixed with cream.

 

No. 10. Testa di Vitello con Salsa Napoletana (Calf’s Head)

Ingredients: Calf’s head, calf’s liver, bacon, suet, truffles,

almonds, olives, calf’s brains, capers, spice, coriander seeds,

herbs, ham, stock.

Boil half a calf’s head, bone it and fill it with a stuffing made

of four ounces of calf’s liver, well chopped up and pounded in a

mortar; two ounces of bacon, one ounce of suet, three truffles, six

almonds, three olives, six coriander seeds, six capers, the calf’s

brains, a pinch of spice and a teaspoonful of chopped herbs. Roll

up the head, tie it up and put it into a stewpan with some bits of

bacon, ham, and very good stock, and stew it slowly. Serve with

Neapolitan sauce, or with tomato sauce piquante.

 

No. 11. Testa di Vitello alla Pompadour (Calf’s Head)

Ingredients: Calf’s head, calf’s brains, cream, eggs, truffles,

cinnamon, stock, butter, Parmesan.

Boil and bone half a calf’s head and fill it with a stuffing made

of the calf’s brains, a gill of cream, the yolks of two eggs, two

truffles cut up, a little chopped ham, and a tiny pinch of

cinnamon. Boil it in good stock, and when it is sufficiently

cooked take it out and mask it all over with a mixture of butter,

yolk of egg, and a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan, then brown it

in the oven and serve hot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 38 –

 

No. 12. Testa di Vitello alla Sanseverino (Calf’s Head)

Ingredients: Calf’s head, sweetbread, fowl’s liver, anchovies,

herbs, capers, garlic, bacon, ham, Malmsey or Muscat.

Boil and bone half a calf’s head, and fill it with a stuffing made

of half a pound of sweetbread, a fowl’s liver, two anchovies, a

teaspoonful of chopped herbs, a few chopped capers, and the calf’s

brains. Roll the head up, stitch it together and braize it in half

a tumbler of Malmsey or Australian Muscat (Burgoyne’s), half a cup

of very good white stock, some bits of ham and bacon, and a clove

of garlic with two cuts. Cook it gently for four hours and serve

it with its own sauce. Do not leave the garlic in longer than ten

minutes.

 

No. 13. Testa di Vitello in Frittata (Calf’s Head)

Ingredients: Calf’s head, eggs, Parmesan, ham, pepper, butter,

croutons.

A good rechauffe’ of calf’s head may be made in the following

manner: After the head has been well boiled in good stock, cut it

into slices and mask these with a mixture of eggs well beaten up,

grated Parmesan, pepper, and chopped ham. Fry in butter, and

garnish with fried parsley and fried croutons. Serve with a sauce

made of a quarter of a pint of good Bechamel and a dessert-

spoonful of New Century sauce.

 

No. 14. Zampetti (Calves’ Feet)

Ingredients: Calves’ feet, butter, leeks or small onions,

parsley, salt, pepper, stock, tomatoes, eggs, cheese, cinnamon.

Blanch and bone two or more calves’ feet and put them into

a stewpan with butter, leeks, or onions, chopped parsley, salt,

pepper, and a little stock. Let them boil till the liquid is

somewhat reduced, then add good meat gravy and two tablespoonsful

of tomato puree, and just before taking the stewpan off the fire,

add the yolks of two eggs beaten up, a tablespoonful of grated

cheese, and a tiny pinch of cinnamon. Mix all well together and

serve very hot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 39 –

 

No. 15. Bodini Marinati

Ingredients: Veal forcemeat, truffles, sweetbread, mushrooms,

herbs, flour, pasta marinate, tongue, butter.

Make a mixture of truffles, tongue, sweetbread, mushrooms, and

herbs, all chopped up, and add it to a forcemeat of veal, the

proportions being two-thirds veal forcemeat and the other

ingredients one third. Mix this well and form it into little balls

about the size of a pigeon’s egg, flour them and mask them all over

with pasta marinate. Fry them in butter over a slow fire,

so that the balls may be well cooked through, and when they are the

right colour dry them in a napkin and serve very hot.

These bodini may be made with various ingredients; they will be

most delicate with a forcemeat of fowl and bits of brain mixed with

herbs, truffle, cooked ham, or tongue. They are also excellent

made with fish (sole, mullet, turbot, &c.), either cooked or raw,

and marinated in lemon, salt, pepper, oil, nutmeg, and parsley.

 

No. 16. Animelle alla Parmegiana (Sweetbread)

Ingredients: Sweetbread, bread crumbs, Parmesan, butter.

Blanch as many sweetbreads as you require, and then roll them in

bread crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan, salt, and pepper; wrap

them up in buttered grease-proof paper and grill them. When they

are cooked, take off the paper, and serve with a good sauce in a

sauce-boat.

 

No. 17. Animelle in Cartoccio (Sweetbread)

Ingredients: Sweetbread, butter, herbs, salt, pepper, bread

crumbs, Parmesan, lemons, gravy, tomatoes.

Blanch a pound of sweetbread cuttings, mix it with two ounces of

melted butter, chopped herbs, salt, and pepper, and put it into

paper souffle cases. Then strew over each some bread crumbs mixed

with grated Parmesan, put the cases in the oven, and when they are

browned serve either with good gravy and lemon juice or with tomato

sauce.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 40 –

 

No. 18. Animelle all’Italiana (Sweetbread)

Ingredients: Sweetbread, butter, onions, salt, herbs, eggs, glaze,

Risotto, truffles, quenelles of fowl, Espagnole sauce,

white sauce.

Blanch as many sweetbreads as you require, cut them into quarters

and saute them in butter with a small onion cut up, salt, and a

bunch of herbs. Then pour over them two cups of white sauce and

cook gently for twenty minutes; take out the sweetbreads and put

them in a stewpan. Reduce the sauce, and add to it a mixture made

of the yolks of four eggs, one and a half ounce of butter and a

teaspoonful of glaze; pass it through a sieve, pour it over the

sweetbreads, and keep them warm in a bain-marie. Have ready a good

Risotto all’Italiana, and put it into a border mould (but

first decorate the inside of the mould with slices of truffle), put

it in a moderate oven, and when it is warm turn it out on a dish.

Place the sweetbreads on the risotto and fill in the centre with

quenelles of fowl and Espagnole sauce.

 

No. 19. Animelle Lardellate (Sweetbread)

Ingredients: Sweetbreads, larding, bacon, stock, a macedoine of

vegetables.

Blanch two sweetbreads, lard them, and cook them very slowly in

good stock. Skim the stock and reduce it to a glaze to cover the

sweetbreads. Then cut them into three or four pieces and arrange

them round a dish, but see that the larding is well glazed over.

In the centre of the dish place a piece of bread in the shape of a

cup and fill this with a macedoine of vegetables.

 

No. 20. Frittura di Bottoni e di Animelle (Sweetbread and

Mushrooms)

Ingredients: Sweetbread, fresh button mushrooms, flour, bread

crumbs, salt, pepper, parsley, butter, lemons.

Peel some button mushrooms and cut them in halves. Boil a

sweetbread, and cut it into pieces about the same size as the

mushrooms, flour, egg, and bread crumb them, and fry in butter;

then serve with a garnish of fried parsley. Hand cut lemons with

this dish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 41 –

 

No. 21. Cervello in Fili serbe (Calf’s Brains)

Ingredients: Calf’s brains, stock, butter, parsley, lemon.

Boil half a calf’s brain in good stock for ten minutes then drain

and pour a little melted butter and the juice of half a lemon over

the brain; add some chopped parsley fried for one minute in butter,

and serve as hot as possible.

 

No. 22. Cervello alla Milanese (Calf’s Brains)

Ingredients: Calf s brains, eggs, bread crumbs, butter.

Scald a calf’s brain and let it get cold. Wipe it on a cloth, and

get it as dry as possible, then cut it into pieces about the size

of a walnut, egg and bread crumb them, fry in butter, and strew a

little salt over them.

 

No. 23. Cervello alla Villeroy (Calf’s Brains)

Ingredients: Calf’s brains, eggs, flour, mushrooms, Velute sauce.

Scald a calf’s brain, and when cold cut it up and mask each piece

with a thick sauce made of well-reduced Velute, mixed with

chopped cooked mushrooms; flour them over and dip them into the

yolk of an egg, and fry as quickly as possible.

 

No. 24. Frittura of Liver and Brains

Ingredients: Calf’s liver and brains (or lamb’s fry),

butter, ham, flour, puff pastry.

Cut up half a pound of liver in small slices, flour and fry them in

butter or dripping, together with a calf’s or sheep’s

brain, previously scalded and also cut up. Serve with bits of

fried ham and little diamond-shaped pieces of puff pastry.

No. 25. Cervello in Frittata Montano (Calf’s Brains)

Ingredients: Calf’s brains, stock, cream, eggs, spice, Parmesan,

butter.

Boil a calf’s brain in good stock for ten minutes, let it get cold,

cut it up into little balls, and mask each piece with a mixture

made of half a gill of cream, the yolks of two eggs, a little

spice, a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan, and the whites of two

eggs well beaten up. Fry the balls in butter, and serve as hot as

possible. You may mask and cook the calf’s brain without cutting

it up, if you prefer it so.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 42 –

 

No. 26. Marinata di Cervello alla Villeroy (Calf’s Brains)

Ingredients: Calf’s brains, stock, Bechamel sauce, eggs, butter,

lemon, forcemeat of fowl, flour.

Boil a calf’s or sheep’s brain in good stock, wipe it well, and cut

it up. Reduce a pint of Bechamel, and add to it the yolks

of three eggs, an ounce of butter, and the juice of a lemon. When

it boils throw in the cut-up brain; let it cool, then take out the

brain and form it into little balls about the size of a small

walnut. Make a forcemeat of fowl, and add a dessert-spoonful of

flour to it, and spread it out very thin on a paste-board, and into

this wrap the balls of brain, each separately. Dip them into a

pasta marinate, and fry them a golden brown.

 

No. 27. Minuta alla Milanese (Lamb’s Sweetbread)

Ingredients: Lamb’s sweetbread, butter, onions, stock, Chablis,

salt, lemon, herbs, cocks’ combs, fowls’ livers.

Cut up equal quantities of lamb’s sweetbreads, cocks’ combs, fowls’

livers in pieces about the size of a filbert, flour and fry them

slightly in butter and a small bit of onion, add half a glass of

Chablis, a cup of good stock, and a bunch of herbs. Reduce the

sauce, and thicken it with a tablespoonful of butter and flour

fried together. Make a border of Risotto all’Italiana,

and put the sweetbread, &c., together with the sauce in the centre.

 

No. 28. Animelle al Sapor di Targone (Lamb’s Fry)

Ingredients: Lamb’s fry, ham, garlic, larding bacon, spice, herbs,

butter, flour, stock.

The lamb’s fry should be nearly all sweetbread, and very little

liver. Lard each piece with bacon and ham, and roll it in chopped

herbs and a pinch of pounded spice. Then dip it in flour and

braize in good stock, to which add three ounces of butter, some

bits of bacon, ham, a bay leaf, herbs, and a clove of garlic with

two cuts. Cook until the fry is well glazed over, and serve with

Tarragon sauce. Do not leave the garlic in longer than ten

minutes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 43 –

 

No. 29. Fritto Misto alla Villeroy

Ingredients: Cocks’ combs, calf’s brains, sweetbread, stock,

truffles, mushrooms, Villeroy, eggs, bread crumbs.

Cook some big cocks’ combs, bits of calf s brains, and sweetbread

in good stock, then drain them and marinate them slightly in lemon

juice and herbs. Prepare a Villeroy, and add to it

cuttings of sweetbread, brains, truffles, mushrooms, &c. When it

is cold, mask the cocks’ combs and other ingredients with it, egg

and bread-crumb them, and fry them a golden brown.

 

No. 30. Fritto Misto alla Piemontese

Ingredients: Sweetbread, calf s brains, ox palate, flour, eggs,

Chablis, salt, herbs butter.

Make a thin paste with a tablespoonful of flour, the yolks of two

eggs, two Spoonsful of Chablis, and a little salt. Mix this up

well, and if it is too thick add a little water. Beat up the

whites of the two eggs into a snow. In the meantime blanch a

sweetbread, half a calf’s brain, and a few bits of cooked ox

palate; boil them all up with a bunch of herbs; cut them into

pieces about the size of a walnut, and dip them into the paste so

that each piece is well covered, then dip them into the beaten-up

whites of egg, and fry them very quickly in butter. This fry is

generally served with a garnish of French beans, which should not

be cut up, but half boiled, then dried, floured over and fried

together with the other ingredients. The ox palates should be

boiled for at least six hours before you use them in this dish.

 

No. 31. Minuta di Fegatini (Ragout of Fowls’ Livers)

Ingredients: Fowls’ or turkeys’ livers, flour, butter, parsley,

onions, salt, pepper, stock, Chablis.

Cut the livers in half, flour them, and fry lightly in butter with

chopped parsley, very little chopped onion, salt and pepper, then

add a quarter pint of boiling stock and half a glass of Chablis,

and cook until the sauce is somewhat reduced. You can also cook

the livers simply in good meat gravy, but in this case they should

not be floured. Serve with a border of macaroni, or

Risotto, or Polenta.

 

 

 

 

– 44 –

 

No. 32. Minuta alla Visconti (Chickens’ Livers)

Ingredients: Fowls’ livers, eggs, cheese, butter, cream, cayenne

pepper.

Braize two fowls’ livers in butter, then pound them up, and mix

with a little cream, a tablespoonful of grated cheese and a dust of

cayenne.

Spread this rather thickly over small squares of toast, and keep

them hot whilst you make a custard with half an ounce of butter, an

egg well beaten up, and a tablespoonful of cheese. Stir it over

the fire till thick and then spread it on the hot toast. Serve

very hot. This makes a good savoury.

 

No. 33. Croutons alla Principesca

Ingredients: Croutons, tongue, sweetbread, truffles, fowl or game,

Velute sauce, stock, eggs, butter.

Fry a bit of bread in butter till it is a light brown colour, then

cut it into heart-shaped pieces. Prepare a ragout with bits of

tongue, sweetbread, fowl or game, truffles, two or three spoonsful

of well-reduced Velute sauce, and two or three of reduced

gravy. Put a spoonful of the ragout in each crouton, and over it a

layer of fowl forcemeat half an inch thick; trim the edges neatly,

glaze them with the yolk of eggs beaten up, and put them in a

buttered fireproof dish in the oven for twenty minutes. Then glaze

them with reduced stock and serve hot.

For a maigre dish use fish for the ragout and forcemeat.

 

No. 34. Croutons alla Romana

Ingredients: Bread, fowl forcemeat, tongue, truffles, herbs,

cream, stock, butter, flour, eggs.

Cut a bit of crumb of bread into round or square shapes, and on

each put a spoonful of fowl or rabbit forcemeat, a little chopped

tongue, and a slight flavouring of chopped herbs; cover with a

slice of bread the same shape as the underneath piece, put them in

a buttered fireproof dish, and moisten them well with cream,

butter, and stock. Cook until all the liquor is absorbed, but turn

them over so that both sides may be well cooked, then flour and dip

them into beaten-up eggs; fry them a good colour and serve very

hot.

For a maigre dish use forcemeat of fish or lobster, and more cream

instead of stock.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 45 –

 

                  Fowl, Duck, Game, Hare and Rabbit

No. 1. Soffiato di Cappone (Fowl Souffle)

Ingredients: Fowl, Bechamel, stock, semolina flour, potatoes,

salt, eggs, butter, smoked tongue or ham.

Prepare a puree of fowl or turkey and a small quantity of grated

tongue or ham, and whilst you are pounding the meat add some good

gravy or stock. Then make a Bechamel sauce and add two

table-spoonsful of semolina flour, a boiled potato and salt to

taste, boil it up and add the puree of fowl, then let it get nearly

cold, add yolks of eggs and the white beaten up into a snow. (For

one pint of the puree use the yolks of three eggs.) Pour the whole

into a buttered souffle case, and half an hour before serving put

it in a moderate oven and serve hot. You can use game instead of

fowl, and serve in little souffle cases.

 

No. 2. Pollo alla Fiorentina (Chicken)

Ingredients: Fowl, butter, vegetables, rice or macaroni,

peppercorns, stock, ham, tomatoes, bay leaves, onions, cloves,

Liebig.

Roll up a fowl in buttered paper and put it in the oven in a

fireproof dish with all kinds of vegetables and a few peppercorns.

Leave it there for about two hours, then put the fowl and

vegetables into two quarts of good stock and let it simmer for one

hour; serve on well-boiled rice or macaroni and pour the following

sauce over it. Sauce: Two pounds tomatoes, one big cup of good

stock, a quarter pound of chopped ham, three bay leaves, one onion

stuck with cloves, one teaspoonful of Liebig. Simmer an hour and a

half.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 46 –

 

No. 3. Pollo all’Oliva (Chicken)

Ingredients: Fowl, onions, celery, salt, parsley, carrots, butter,

stock, olives, tomatoes.

Cut up half an onion, a stick of celery, a sprig of parsley, a

carrot, and cook them all in a quarter pound of butter. Into this

put a fowl cut up and let it act brown all over, turn when

necessary and then baste it with boiling stock. Add four Spanish

olives cut up and four others pounded in a mortar, eight whole

olives and three tablespoonsful of tomato puree reduced, and when

the fowl is well cooked pour the sauce over it.

 

No. 4. Pollo alla Villereccia (Chicken)

Ingredients: Fowl, butter, flour, stock, bacon, ham, mushrooms,

onions, cloves, eggs, cream, lemons.

Cut up a fowl into quarters and put it into a saucepan with three

ounces of butter and a tablespoonful of flour Put it on the fire,

and when it is well browned add half a pint of stock, bits of bacon

and ham, butter, three mushrooms (previously boiled), an onion

stuck with three cloves. When this is cooked skim off the grease,

pass the sauce through a sieve, and add the yolks of two eggs mixed

with two tablespoonsful of cream. Lastly, add a squeeze of lemon

juice to the sauce and pour it over the fowl.

 

No. 5. Pollo alla Cacciatora (Chicken)

Ingredients: The same as No. 134 and tomatoes.

Cook the fowl exactly as above, but add either a puree of tomatoes

or tomato sauce.

 

No. 6. Pollastro alla Lorenese (Fowl)

Ingredients: Fowl, butter, parsley, lemon, small onions, bread

crumbs.

Cut up a fowl and put it into a frying pan with two ounces of

butter, one onion cut up and a sprig of chopped parsley, salt and

pepper; put it on the fire and cook it, but turn the pieces several

times: then take them out and roll them whilst hot in bread

crumbs, and fry them. Serve with cut lemons.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 47 –

 

No. 7. Pollastro in Fricassea al Burro (Fowl)

Ingredients: Fowl, butter, fat bacon, ham, mushrooms, truffles,

herbs, spice, gravy.

Cut up a fowl and cook it in a fricassee of butter, bacon, ham,

herbs, mushrooms, truffles, spice, and good gravy or stock. Serve

in its own gravy.

 

No. 8. Pollastro in istufa di Pomidoro (Braized Fowl)

Ingredients: Fowl, bacon, ham, bay leaf, spice, garlic, Burgundy,

tomatoes.

Braize a fowl with bits of fat bacon, ham, a bay leaf, a clove of

garlic with one cut in it, a pinch of spice, and a glass of

Burgundy. Only leave the garlic in for five minutes. When cooked

serve with tomato sauce.

 

No. 9. Cappone con Riso (Capon with Rice)

Ingredients: Capon, veal forcemeat, fat bacon, stock, rice,

truffles, mushrooms, cocks’ combs, kidneys or fowls’ liver, supreme

sauce, milk, Chablis.

Stuff a fine capon with a good firm forcemeat made of veal, tongue,

ham, and chopped truffles; cover it with larding bacon; tie it up

in buttered paper, and cook it in very good white stock. In the

meantime boil four ounces of rice in milk till quite stiff, mix in

some chopped truffles, and make ten little timbales of it. Take

out the capon when it is sufficiently cooked and place it on a

dish; garnish it with cooked mushrooms, cocks’ combs, kidneys, or

fowls’ livers, and pour a sauce supreme over it; round the

dish place the timbales of rice, and between each put a whole

truffle cooked in white wine. Serve a sauce supreme in a sauce

bowl.

 

No. 10. Dindo Arrosto alla Milanese (Roast Turkey)

Ingredients: Turkey, sausage meat, prunes, chestnuts, a pear,

butter, Marsala, salt, rosemary, bacon, carrot, onion, turnip,

garlic.

Blanch for seven or eight minutes three prunes, quarter of a pound

of sausage meat, three tablespoonsful of chestnut puree, two small

slices of bacon, half a cooked pear, and saute them in butter; chop

up the liver and gizzard of the turkey, mix them with the other

ingredients, and add half a glass of Marsala; use this as a

stuffing for the turkey, and first braize it for three quarters of

an hour with salt, butter, a blade of rosemary, bits of fat bacon,

a carrot, a turnip, an onion, three cloves, and a clove of garlic

with a cut; then roast it before a clear fire for about twenty

minutes; put it back into the sauce till it is ready to serve.

Only leave the garlic in ten minutes.

– 48 –

 

No. 11. Tacchinotto all’Istrione (Turkey Poult)

Ingredients: A turkey poult, ham, mace, bay leaves, lemons, water,

salt, onions, parsley, celery, carrots, Chablis.

Truss a turkey poult, and cover it all over with slices of ham or

bacon, put two bay leaves and four slices of lemon on it, and

sprinkle with a small pinch of mace, then sew it up tight in a

dishcloth, and stew it in good stock, salt, an onion, parsley, a

stick of celery, a carrot, and a pint of Chablis; cook for an hour,

take it out of the cloth, and pour a good rich sauce over it. It

is also good cold with aspic jelly.

 

No. 12. Fagiano alla Napoletana (Pheasant)

Ingredients: Pheasant, macaroni, gravy, butter, Parmesan,

tomatoes.

Lard a pheasant, roast it, and serve it on a layer of macaroni

cooked with good reduced gravy, two ounces of butter, a

tablespoonful of grated Parmesan, and a puree of tomatoes. Serve

with Neapolitan sauce in a sauce bowl.

 

No. 13. Fagiano alla Perigo (Pheasant)

Ingredients: Pheasant, butter, truffles, larding bacon, Madeira.

Make a mixture of three tablespoonsful of chopped truffles, three

ounces of butter and a little salt, and with this stuff a pheasant.

Then cover it with slices of fat bacon and keep it in a cool place

till next day. A few hours before serving, roast the pheasant and

baste it well with melted butter and a wine-glass of Madeira or

Marsala. Make a crouton of fried bread the shape of your dish, and

over this put a Layer of forcemeat of fowl and a number of small

fowl quenelles; cover them with buttered paper, then put the dish

in the oven for a few minutes so as to settle the forcemeat. When

the pheasant is cooked, place it on the crouton and garnish it with

slices of truffle which have been previously cooked in Madeira, and

serve with a Perigord sauce.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 49 –

 

No. 14. Anitra Selvatica (Wild Duck)

Ingredients: Wild duck, butter, fowls’ livers, Marsala, gravy,

turnips, carrots, parsley, mushrooms.

Cut a wild duck into quarters and put it into a stewpan with two

fowls’ livers cut up and fried in butter. When the pieces of duck

are coloured on both sides, pour off the butter, and in its place

pour a glass of Marsala, a cup of stock, and a cup of Espagnole

sauce , and cook gently for ten minutes. In the meantime

shape and blanch six young turnips and as many young carrots, put

them into a stewpan, and on the top of them put the pieces of wild

duck, liver, &c. Pass the liquor through a sieve and pour it over

the wild duck, add a bunch of parsley and other herbs and five

little mushrooms cut up, and cook on a slow fire for half an hour.

Skim the sauce, pass it through a sieve and add a pinch of sugar.

Put the pieces of wild duck in an entree dish, add the vegetables,

&c., pour the sauce over and serve.

 

No. 15. Perniciotti alla Gastalda (Partridges)

Ingredients: Partridges, cauliflower, bacon, sausage, fowls’

livers, carrots, onions herbs, stock, gravy, butter, Madeira.

Cut a cauliflower into quarters, blanch for a few minutes, drain,

and put it into a saucepan with some bits of bacon. Let it drain

on paper till dry, then arrange the bits in a circle in a deep

stewpan, and in the centre put a small bit of sausage, the livers

of the partridges, a fowl’s liver cut up, a carrot, an onion, and a

bunch of herbs. Cover about three-quarters high with good stock

and gravy, put butter on the top and boil gently for an hour; then

take out the sausage, replace it by two or three partridges, and

simmer for three-quarters of an hour. In the meantime cut a

sausage in thin slices and line a mould with it. When the birds

are cooked, take them out, drain and cut them up, and fill the

mould with alternate layers of partridge and cauliflower, and steam

for half an hour. Five minutes before serving turn the mould over

on a plate, but do not take it off, so as to let all the grease

drain off. Cut up the fowls’ and partridges’ livers, make them

into scallops and glaze them. Wipe off all the grease round the

mould; take it off, garnish the dish with the scallops of liver and

serve hot with an Espagnole sauce reduced, and add a glass

of Madeira or Marsala, and a glass of essence of game to it. This

is an excellent way of cooking an old partridge or pheasant.

 

 

 

 

 

– 50 –

 

No. 16. Beccaccini alla Diplomatica (Snipe)

Ingredients: Snipe, ham, larding bacon, herbs, Marsala, croutons,

truffles, cocks’ combs, mushrooms, sweetbread, tongue.

Truss fourteen snipe and cook them in a mirepoix made with plenty

of ham, fat bacon, herbs, and a wine glass of Marsala. When they

are cooked pour off the sauce, skim off the grease and reduce it.

Take the two smallest snipe and make a forcemeat of them by

pounding them in a mortar with the livers of all the snipe, then

dilute this with reduced Espagnole sauce and add it to the

first sauce. Cut twelve croutons of bread just large enough to

hold a snipe each, and fry them in butter. Add some chopped herbs

and truffles to the forcemeat, spread it on the croutons, and on

each place a snipe and cover it with a bit of fat bacon and

buttered paper. Put them in a moderate oven for a few minutes,

arrange them on a dish, and pour some of their own sauce over them.

Garnish the spaces between the croutons with white cocks’ combs,

mushrooms, and truffles. The truffles should be scooped out and

filled with a little stuffing of sweetbread, tongue, and truffles

mixed with a little of the sauce of the snipe. Serve the rest of

the sauce in a sauce-boat.

 

No. 17. Piccioni alla minute (Pigeons)

Ingredients: Pigeons, butter, truffles, herbs, fowls’ livers,

sweetbread, salt, flour, stock, Burgundy.

Prepare two pigeons and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of

butter, two truffles cut up, two fowls’ livers, half-pound of

sweetbread cuttings (boiled), a bunch of herbs and salt. Let them

brown a little, then add a dessert-spoonful of flour mixed with

stock, and half a glass of Burgundy, and stew gently for half an

hour.

 

No. 18. Piccioni in Ripieno (Stuffed Pigeons)

Ingredients: Pigeons, sweetbread, parsley, onions, carrots, salt,

pepper, bacon, stock, Chablis, fowls’ livers, and gizzards.

Cut up a sweetbread, a fowl’s liver and gizzard, an onion, a sprig

of parsley, and add salt and pepper. Put this stuffing into two

pigeons, tie larding bacon over them, and put them into a stewpan

with a glass of Chablis, a cup of stock, an onion, and a carrot.

When cooked pass the sauce through a sieve, skim it, add a little

more sauce, and pour it over the pigeons.

 

 

 

 

 

– 51 –

 

No. 19. Lepre in istufato (Stewed Hare)

Ingredients: Hare, butter, onions, garlic, marjoram, celery, ham,

salt, Chablis, stock, mushrooms, spice, tomatoes.

Put into a stewpan three ounces of butter, an onion cut up, a clove

of garlic with a cut across it, a sprig of marjoram, and a little

cut-up ham. Fry these slightly, put the hare cut up into the same

stewpan, and let it get brown. Then pour a glass of Chablis and a

glass of stock over it; add a little tomato sauce or a mashed-up

tomato, a pinch of spice, and a few mushrooms; take out the garlic

and let the rest stew gently for an hour or more. Keep the cover

on the stewpan, but stir the stew occasionally.

 

No. 20. Lepre Agro-dolce (Hare)

Ingredients: Hare, vinegar butter, onion, ham, stock salt, sugar,

chocolate, almonds, raisins.

Cut up a hare and wash the pieces in vinegar, then cook them in

butter, chopped onion, some bits of ham stock and a little salt.

Half fill a wine-glass with sugar and add vinegar until the glass

is three-quarters full mix the vinegar and sugar well together, and

when the hare is browned all over and nearly cooked, pour the

vinegar over it and add a dessert spoonful of grated chocolate a

few shredded almonds and stoned raisins. Mix all well together and

cook for a few minutes more. This is a favourite Roman dish.

 

No. 21. Coniglio alla Provenzale (Rabbit)

Ingredients: Rabbit, flour butter, stock, Chablis, parsley onion,

spice, mushrooms.

Cut up a rabbit, wipe the pieces, flour them over, and fry them in

butter until they are coloured all over. Then pour a glass of

Chablis over them, add some chopped parsley, half an onion, three

mushrooms, salt, and a cup of good stock. Cover the stewpan and

cook on a moderate fire for about three-quarters of an hour.

Should the stew act too dry, add a spoonful of stock occasionally.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 52 –

 

No. 22. Coniglio arrostito alla Corradino (Roast Rabbit)

Ingredients: Rabbit, calf’s fry, butter, salt, pepper, fennel, bay

leaf, onions.

Make a stuffing of calf’s fry (previously cooked in butter), salt,

pepper, fennel, an onion, all chopped up, and a bay leaf. With

this stuff a rabbit well and braize it for half an hour, then

roast it before a brisk fire and baste it well with good gravy.

If you like, put in a clove of garlic with one cut whilst it is

being braized, but only leave it in for five minutes. Serve with

ham sauce (Salsa di prosciutto, No. 7.) A fowl may be cooked in

this way.

 

No. 23. Coniglio in salsa Piccante (Rabbit)

Ingredients: Rabbit, butter, flour, celery, parsley, onion,

carrot, mushrooms, cloves, spices, Burgundy, stock, capers,

anchovies.

Cut up a rabbit, wipe the pieces well on a dishcloth, flour them

over and put them into a frying-pan with two ounces of butter and

fry for about ten minutes. Then add half a stick of celery,

parsley, an onion, half a carrot, and three mushrooms, all cut up,

three cloves, a pinch of spice and salt, a glass of Burgundy, and

the same quantity of stock; cover the stewpan and cook for half an

hour, then put the pieces of rabbit into another stewpan and pass

the liquor through a sieve; press it well with a wooden spoon, so

as to get as much through as possible, pour this over the rabbit

and add four capers and an anchovy in brine pounded in a mortar,

mix all well together, let it simmer for a few minutes, then serve

hot with a garnish of croutons fried in butter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 53 –

                               Italian Vegetables Dishes

 

No. 1. Asparagi alla salsa Suprema (Asparagus)

Ingredients: Asparagus, butter, nutmeg, salt, supreme sauce

Delicious Italian dishes

gravy, lemon, Parmesan.

Cut some asparagus into pieces about an inch long and cook them in

boiling water with salt, then drain and put them into a saute pan

with one and a half ounce of melted butter and sautez for a few

minutes, but first add salt, a pinch of nutmeg, and a dust of

grated cheese. Pour a little supreme sauce over them, and at the

last add a little gravy, one ounce of fresh butter, and a squeeze

of lemon juice.

 

No. 2. Cavoli di Bruxelles alla Savoiarda (Brussels Sprouts)

Ingredients: Brussels sprouts, butter, pepper, stock, Bechamel

sauce, Parmesan, croutons.

Take off the outside leaves of half a pound of Brussels sprouts,

wash and boil them in salted water. Let them get cool, drain, and

put them in a pie-dish with two ounces of fresh butter, a quarter

pint of very good stock, a little pepper, and a dust of grated

Parmesan. When they are well glazed over, pour off the sauce,

season with three tablespoonsful of boiling Bechamel sauce,

and serve with croutons fried in butter.

 

No. 3. Barbabietola alla Parmigiana (Beetroot)

Ingredients: Beetroot, white sauce, Parmesan, Cheddar.

Boil a beetroot till it is quite tender, peel it, cut into slices,

put it in a fireproof dish, and cover it with a thick white sauce.

Strew a little grated Parmesan and Cheddar over it. Put it in the

oven for a few minutes, and serve very hot in the dish.

 

No. 4. Fave alla Savoiarda (Beans)

Ingredients: Beans, stock, a bunch of herbs, Bechamel sauce.

Boil one pound of broad beans in salt and water, skin and cook them

in a saucepan with a quarter pint of reduced stock and a hunch of

herbs. Drain them, take out the herbs, and season with two glasses

of Bechamel sauce.

 

No. 5. Verze alla Capuccina (Cabbage)

Ingredients: Cabbage or greens, anchovies, salt, butter, parsley,

gravy, Parmesan.

Boil two cabbages in a good deal of water, and cut them into

quarters. Fry two anchovies slightly in butter and chopped

parsley, add the cabbages, and at the last three tablespoonsful of

good gravy, two tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan, salt and pepper,

and when cooked, serve.

– 54 –

 

No. 6. Cavoli fiodi alla Lionese (Cauliflower)

Ingredients: Cauliflower, butter, onions, parsley, lemon,

Espagnole sauce.

Blanch a cauliflower and boil it, but not too much. Cut up a small

onion, fry it slightly in butter and chopped parsley, and when it

is well coloured, add the cauliflower and finish cooking it, then

take it out, put it in a dish, pour a good Espagnole sauce

over it, and add a squeeze of lemon juice.

 

No. 7. Cavoli fiodi fritti (Cauliflower)

Ingredients: Cauliflower or broccoli, gravy, lemon, salt, eggs,

butter.

Break up a broccoli or cauliflower into little bunches, blanch

them, and put them on the fire in a saucepan with good gravy for a

few minutes, then marinate them with lemon juice and salt, let them

get cold, egg them over, and fry in butter.

 

No. 8. Cauliflower alla Parmigiana

Ingredients: Cauliflower, butter, Parmesan, Cheddar, Espagnole,

stock.

Boil a cauliflower in salted water, then sautez it in butter, but

be careful not to cook it too much. Take it off the fire and strew

grated Parmesan and Cheddar over it then put in a fireproof dish

and add a good spoonful of stock and one of Espagnole, and

put it in the oven for ten minutes.

 

No. 9. Cavoli Fiori Ripieni

Ingredients: Cauliflower, butter, stock, forcemeat of fowl,

tongue, truffles, mushrooms, parsley, Espagnole, eggs.

Break up a cauliflower into separate little bunches, blanch them,

and put them in butter, and a quarter pint of reduced stock. Make

a forcemeat of fowl, add bits of tongue, truffles, mushrooms, and

parsley, all cut up small and mixed with butter. With this mask

the pieces of cauliflower, egg and breadcrumb them, fry like

croquettes, and serve with a good Espagnole sauce.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 55 –

 

No. 10. Sedani alla Parmigiana (Celery)

Ingredients: Celery, stock, ham, salt, pepper, Cheddar, Parmesan,

butter, gravy.

Cut all the green off a head of celery, trim the rest. Cut it into

pieces about four inches long, blanch and braize them in good

stock, ham, salt, and pepper. When cooked, drain and arrange them

on a dish, sprinkle with grated Parmesan and Cheddar, and add one

and a half ounce of butter, then put them in the oven till they

have taken a good colour, pour a little good gravy over them and

serve.

 

No. 11. Sedani fritti all’Italiana (Celery)

Ingredients: Same as No. 163, eggs, bread crumbs, tomatoes.

Prepare a head of celery as above, and cut it up into equal pieces.

Blanch and braize as above, and when cold egg and breadcrumb and

sautez in butter. Serve with tomato sauce.

 

No. 12. Cetriuoli alla Parmigiana (Cucumber)

Ingredients: Cucumber, butter, cheese, gravy, salt, cayenne.

Cut a cucumber into slices about half an inch thick, boil for five

minutes in salted water, drain in a sieve, and fry slightly in

melted butter, then strew a little grated Parmesan over it, and add

a good thick gravy, put it into the oven for ten minutes to brown,

and serve as hot as possible.

 

No. 13. Cetriuoli alla Borghese (Cucumber)

Ingredients: Cucumber, cream, salt, Bechamel sauce, butter,

Parmesan, cayenne pepper.

Cook a cucumber as in No. 165, braize it for five minutes, add to

it a good rich Bechamel, mixed with cream and grated

Parmesan Spread this well over the cucumber, and put it into the

oven for ten minutes keeping the rounds of cucumber separate, so as

to arrange them in a circle on a very hot dish. Care should be

taken not to cook the cucumber too long, or it will break in pieces

and spoil the look of the dish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 56 –

 

No. 14. Carote al sughillo (Carrots)

Ingredients: Carrots, stock, butter, sausage, pepper.

Boil some young carrots in stock, slice them up, and put them in a

stewpan with a sausage cut up; cook for quarter of an hour on a

slow fire, then stir up the fire, and when the carrots and sausage

are a good colour add a good Espagnole sauce, and serve.

 

No. 15. Carote e piselli alla panna (Carrots and Peas)

Ingredients: Young carrots, peas, cream, salt.

Half cook equal quantities of peas and young carrots (the carrots

should be cut in dice, and will require a little longer cooking),

then put them together in a stewpan with three or four

tablespoonsful of cream, and cook till quite tender. Serve hot.

 

No. 16. Verze alla Certosine (Cabbage)

Ingredients: Cabbage, butter, salt, leeks or shallots, sardines,

cheese.

Any vegetable may be cooked in the following simple manner: Boil

them well, then slightly fry a little bit of leek or shallot and a

sardine in butter; drain the vegetables, put them in the butter,

and cook gently so that they may absorb all the flavour, and at the

last add a dust of grated cheese and a tiny pinch of spice.

 

No. 17. Lattughe al sugo (Lettuce)

Ingredients: Lettuce, Parmesan, bacon, stock, butter, croutons of

bread, gravy.

Take off the outside leaves of a lettuce, blanch and drain them

well. Put on each leaf a mixture of grated Parmesan, salt, little

bits of chopped bacon or ham, add a little good stock, cover over

with buttered paper, and cook in a hot oven for five minutes. Then

drain off the stock and roll up each leaf with the bacon, &c., put

them on croutons of fried bread and pour some good thick gravy over

them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 57 –

 

No. 18 Lattughe farcite alla Genovese (Lettuce)

Ingredients: Lettuce, forcemeat of fowl or veal, ham, Espagnole

sauce.

Prepare a lettuce as above, and spread on each leaf a spoonful of

forcemeat of fowl or veal, add a little cooked ham chopped up, roll

up the leaves, and cook as above. Drain them on a cloth, arrange

them neatly on a dish, and pour some good Espagnole sauce

over them.

 

No. 19. Funghi cappelle infarcite (Stuffed Mushrooms)

Ingredients: Mushrooms, bread, stock, garlic, parsley, salt,

Parmesan, butter, eggs, cream.

Choose a dozen good fresh mushrooms, take off the stalks and put

the tops into a saucepan with a little butter. See that they lie

bottom upwards. Then cut up and mix together half the stalks of

the mushrooms, a little bread crumb soaked in gravy, the merest

scrap of garlic and a little chopped parsley. Put this into a

separate saucepan and add to it two eggs, half a gill of cream,

salt, and two tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan. Mix well so as to

get a smooth paste and fill in the cavities of the mushrooms with

  1. Then add a little more butter, strew some bread crumbs over

each mushroom, and cook in the oven for ten to fifteen minutes.

 

No. 20. Verdure miste (Macedoine of Vegetables)

Ingredients: Cauliflower, carrots, celery, spinach, butter, cream,

pepper, Parmesan.

Boil some carrots, cauliflower, spinach, and celery (all cut up) in

water. Then put them in layers in a buttered china mould, and

between each layer add a little cream, pepper, and a little grated

Parmesan and Cheddar. Fill the mould in this manner, and put it in

the oven for half an hour, so that the vegetables may cook without

adhering to the mould. Turn out and serve.

 

No. 21. Patate alla crema (Potatoes in cream)

Ingredients: Potatoes, butter, Parmesan, white stock, cream,

pepper, salt.

Boil two pounds of potatoes in salted water for a quarter of an

hour, peel and cut them into slices about the size of a penny, then

arrange them in layers in a very deep fireproof dish (with a lid),

and on each layer pour a little melted butter, a little good white

stock and a dust of grated Parmesan. Reduce a pint and a half of

cream to half its quantity, add a little pepper, and pour it over

the potatoes. Put the dish in the oven for twenty minutes. Serve

as hot as possible

 

– 58 –

 

No. 22. Cestelline di patate alla giardiniera (Potatoes)

Ingredients: Potatoes, white stock, salt, butter, peas, asparagus,

sprouts, beans, &c.

Choose some big sound potatoes, cut them in half and scoop out a

little of the centre so as to form a cavity, blanch them in salted

water and cook for a quarter of an hour in good white stock and a

little butter. Then fill in the cavities with a macedoine of

cooked vegetables and add a little cream to each.

 

No. 23. Patate al Pomidoro (Potatoes with Tomato Sauce)

Ingredients: Potatoes, butter, salt, tomatoes, lemon, stock.

Peel three or four raw potatoes, cut them in slices about the size

of a five-shilling piece, then put them into a stewpan with two

ounces of melted butter, and cook them gently until they are a good

colour, add salt, drain off the butter, then glaze them by adding

half a glass of good stock. Arrange them on a dish, pour some good

tomato sauce over them, and add a little butter and a squeeze of

lemon juice.

 

No. 24. Spinaci alla Milanese (Spinach)

Ingredients: Spinach, butter, Velute sauce, salt, pepper, flour,

stock.

Wash three pounds of spinach at least six times, boil it in a pint

of water, then mince it up very fine, pass it through a hair-sieve,

and put it in a saucepan with one and a half ounces of butter, add

a cupful of reduced Velute sauce with cream, salt, and

pepper, add a dessert-spoonful of flour and butter mixed, and boil

until the spinach is firm enough to make into a shape, garnish with

hardboiled eggs cut into quarters, and pour a good Espagnole sauce

round the dish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 59 –

 

No. 25. Insalata di patate (Potato salad)

Ingredients: New potatoes, oil, white vinegar, onions, parsley,

tarragon, chervil, celery, cream, salt, pepper, tarragon vinegar,

watercress, cucumber, truffles.

Steam as many new potatoes as you require until they are well

cooked, let them get cold, cut them into slices and pour three

teaspoonsful of salad oil and one of white vinegar over them. Then

rub a salad bowl with onion, put in a layer of the potato slices,

and sprinkle with chopped parsley, tarragon, chervil, and celery,

then another layer of potatoes until you have used all the

potatoes; cover them with whipped cream seasoned with salt, pepper,

and a little tarragon vinegar, and garnish the top with watercress,

a few thin slices of truffle cooked in white wine, and some slices

of cooked cucumber.

 

No. 26. Insalata alla Navarino (Salad)

Ingredients: Peas, bean onions, potatoes, tarragon, chives,

parsley, tomatoes, anchovies, oil, vinegar, ham.

Mix a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of chopped

onion, a teaspoonful of tarragon and chopped chives with half a

gill of oil and half a gill of vinegar. Put this into a salad bowl

with all sorts of cooked vegetables: peas, haricot beans, small

onions, and potatoes cut up, and mix them w ell but gently, so as

not to break the vegetables. Then add two or three anchovies in

oil, and on the top place three or four ripe tomatoes cut in

slices. A little cooked smoked ham cut in dice added to this

salad is a great improvement.

 

No. 27. Insalata di pomidoro (Tomato Salad)

Ingredients: Tomatoes, mayonnaise, shallot, horseradish, gherkin,

anchovies, fish, cucumber, lettuce, chervil, tarragon, eggs.

Mix the following ingredients: two anchovies in oil boned and

minced, a gill of mayonnaise sauce, a little grated horseradish,

very little chopped shallot, a little cold salmon or trout, and a

small gherkin chopped. With this mixture stuff some ripe tomatoes.

Then make a good salad of endive or lettuce, a teaspoonful of

chopped tarragon and chervil, season it with oil, vinegar, salt,

and pepper (the proportions should be three of oil to one of

vinegar), put a layer of slices of cucumber in the salad, place the

tomatoes on the top of these, and decorate them with hard-boiled

eggs passed through a wire sieve.

 

 

 

 

 

– 60 –

 

No. 28. Tartufi alla Dino (Truffles)

Ingredients: Truffles, fowl forcemeat, champagne.

Allow one truffle for each person, scoop out the inside, chop it up

fine and mix with a good forcemeat of fowl. With this fill up the

truffles, place a thin layer of truffle on the top of each, and

cook them in champagne in a stewpan for about half an hour. Then

take them out, make a rich sauce, to which add the champagne you

have used and some of the chopped truffle, put the truffles in this

sauce and keep hot for ten minutes. Serve in paper souffle cases.

 

                  Macaroni, Rice, Polenta, and Other Italian Pastes

No. 1. Macaroni with Tomatoes

Ingredients: Macaroni, tomatoes, butter, onion, basil, pepper,

salt.

Fry half an onion slightly in butter, and as soon as it is coloured

add a puree of two big cooked tomatoes. Then boil quarter of a

pound of macaroni separately, drain it and put it in a deep

fireproof dish, add the tomato puree and three tablespoonsful of

grated Parmesan and Cheddar mixed, and cook gently for a quarter of

an hour before serving. This dish may be made with vermicelli,

spaghetti, or any other Italian paste.

 

No. 2. Macaroni alla Casalinga

Ingredients: Macaroni, butter, stock, cheese, water, salt, nutmeg.

Cut up a quarter pound of macaroni in small pieces and put it in

boiling salted water. When sufficiently cooked, drain and put it

into a saucepan with two ounces of butter, add good gravy or stock,

three tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan and Cheddar mixed, and a

tiny pinch of nutmeg. Stir over a brisk fire, and serve very hot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 61 –

 

No. 3. Macaroni al Sughillo

Ingredients: Macaroni, stock, tomatoes, sausage, cheese.

Half cook four ounces of macaroni, drain it and put it in layers in

a fireproof dish, and gradually add good beef gravy, four

tablespoonsful of tomato puree, and thin slices of sausage.

Sprinkle with grated Parmesan and Cheddar, and cook for about

twenty minutes. Before serving pass the salamander over the top to

brown the macaroni.

 

No. 4. Macaroni alla Livornese

Ingredients: Macaroni, mushrooms, tomatoes, Parmesan, butter,

pepper, salt, milk.

Boil about four ounces of macaroni, and stew four or five mushrooms

in milk with pepper and salt. Put a layer of the macaroni in a

buttered fireproof dish, then a layer of tomato puree, then a layer

of the mushrooms and another layer of macaroni. Dust it all over

with grated Parmesan and Cheddar, put it in the oven for half an

hour, and serve very hot.

 

No. 5. Tagliarelle and Lobster

Ingredients: Tagliarelle, lobster, cheese, butter.

Boil half a pound of tagliarelle, and cut up a quarter of a pound

of lobster. Butter a fireproof dish, and strew it well with grated

Parmesan and Cheddar mixed, then put in the tagliarelle and lobster

in layers, and between each layer add a little butter. Strew

grated cheese over the top, put it in the oven for twenty minutes,

and brown the top with a salamander.

 

No. 6. Polenta

Polenta is made of ground Indian-corn, and may be used either as a

separate dish or as a garnish for roast meat, pigeons, fowl, &c.

It is made like porridge; gradually drop the meal with one hand

into boiling stock or water, and stir continually with a wooden

spoon with the other hand. In about a quarter of an hour it will

be quite thick and smooth, then add a little butter and grated

Parmesan, and one egg beaten up. Let it get cold, then put it in

layers in a baking-dish, add a little butter to each layer,

sprinkle with plenty of Parmesan, and bake it for about an hour in

a slow oven. Serve hot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 62 –

 

No. 7. Polenta Pasticciata

Ingredients: Polenta, butter, cheese, mushrooms, tomatoes.

Prepare a good polenta as above, put it in layers in a fireproof

dish, and add by degrees one and a half ounces of melted butter,

two cooked mushrooms cut up, and two tablespoonsful of grated

cheese. (If you like, you may add a good-sized tomato mashed up.)

Put the dish in the oven, and before serving brown it over with

salamander.

 

No. 8. Battuffoli

Ingredients: Polenta, onion, butter, salt, stock, Parmesan.

Make a somewhat firm polenta with half a pound of ground

maize and a pint and a half of salted water, add a small onion cut

up and fried in butter, and stir the polenta until it is

sufficiently cooked. Then take it off the fire and arrange it by

spoonsful in a large fireproof dish, and give each spoonful the

shape and size of an egg. Place them one against the other, and

when the first layer is done, pour over it some very good gravy or

stock, and plenty of grated Parmesan. Arrange it thus layer by

layer. Put it into the oven for twenty minutes, and serve very

hot.

 

No. 9. Risotto all’Italiana

Ingredients: Rice, an onion, butter, stock, tomatoes, cheese.

Fry a small onion slightly in butter, then add half a pint of very

good stock. Boil four ounces of rice, but do not let it get pulpy,

add it to the above with three medium-sized tomatoes in a puree.

Mix it all up well, add more stock, and two tablespoonsful of

grated Parmesan and Cheddar mixed, and serve hot.

 

No. 10. Risotto alla Genovese

Ingredients: Rice, beef or veal, onions, parsley, butter, stock,

Parmesan, sweetbread or sheep’s brains.

Cut up a small onion and fry it slightly in butter with some – 63 –

Delicious Italian dishes

chopped parsley, add to this a little veal, also chopped up, and a

little suet. Cook for ten minutes and then add two ounces of rice

to it. Mix all with a wooden spoon, and after a few minutes begin

to add boiling stock gradually; stir with the spoon, so that the

rice whilst cooking may absorb the stock; when it is half cooked

add a few spoonsful of good gravy and a sweetbread or sheep’s

brains (previously scalded and cut up in pieces), and, if you like,

a little powdered saffron dissolved in a spoonful of stock and

three tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan and Cheddar mixed. Stir

well until the rice is quite cooked, but take care not to get it

into a pulp.

No. 11. Risotto alla Spagnuola

Ingredients: Rice, calf, ham, onions, tomatoes, butter, stock,

vegetables, Parmesan.

Put a small bit of onion and an ounce of butter into a saucepan,

add half a pound of tomatoes cut up and fry for a few minutes.

Then put in some bits of loin of calf cut into dice and some bits

of lean ham. After a time add four ounces of rice and good stock,

and as soon as it begins to boil put on the cover and put the

saucepan on a moderate fire. When the rice is half cooked add any

sort of vegetable, by preference peas, asparagus cut up, beans, and

cucumber cut up, cook for another quarter of an hour, and serve

with grated Parmesan and Cheddar mixed and good gravy.

 

No. 12. Risotto alla Capuccina

Ingredients: Risotto eggs, truffles, smoked tongue,

butter.

Make a good risotto, and when cooked put it into a fireproof dish.

When cold cut into shapes with a dariole mould and fry for a few

minutes in butter, then turn the darioles out, scoop out a little

of each and fill it with eggs beaten up, cover each with a slice of

truffle and garnish with a little chopped tongue. Put them in the

oven for ten minutes.

 

No. 13. Risotto alla Parigina

Ingredients: Risotto , game, sauce, butter.

Make a good risotto, and when cooked pour it into a fireproof dish,

let it get cold, and then cut it out with a dariole mould, or else

form it into little balls about the size of a pigeon’s egg. Fry

these in butter and serve with a rich game sauce poured over them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 64 –

 

No. 14. Ravioli

Ingredients: Flour, eggs, butter, salt, forcemeat, Parmesan, gravy

or stock.

Make a paste with a quarter pound of flour, the yolk of two eggs, a

little salt and two ounces of butter. Knead this into a firm

smooth paste and wrap it up in a damp cloth for half an hour, then

roll it out as thin as possible, moisten it with a paste-brush

dipped in water, and cut it into circular pieces about three inches

in diameter. On each piece put about a teaspoonful of forcemeat of

fowl, game, or fish mixed with a little grated Parmesan and the

yolks of one or two eggs. Fold the paste over the forcemeat and

pinch the edges together, so as to give them the shape of little

puffs; let them dry in the larder, then blanch by boiling them in

stock for quarter of an hour and drain them in a napkin. Butter a

fireproof dish, put in a layer of the ravioli, powder them over

with grated Parmesan, then another layer of ravioli and more

Parmesan. Then add enough very good gravy to cover them, put the

dish in the oven for about twenty-five minutes, and serve in the

dish.

 

No. 15. Ravioli alla Fiorentina

Ingredients: Beetroot, eggs, Parmesan, milk or cream, nutmeg,

spices, salt, flour, gravy.

Wash a beetroot and boil it, and when it is sufficiently cooked

throw it into cold water for a few minutes, then drain it, chop it

up and add to it four eggs, one ounce of grated Parmesan, one ounce

of grated Cheddar, two and a half ounces of boiled cream or milk, a

small pinch of nutmeg and a little salt. Mix all well together

into a smooth firm paste, then roll into balls about the size of a

walnut, flour them over well, let them dry for half an hour, then

drop them very carefully one by one into boiling stock and when

they float on the top take them out with a perforated ladle, put

them in a deep dish, dust them over with Parmesan and pour good

meat or game gravy over them.

 

No. 16. Gnocchi alla Romana

Ingredients: Semolina, butter, Parmesan, eggs, nutmeg, milk,

cream.

Boil half a pint of milk in a saucepan, then add two ounces of

butter, four ounces of semolina, two tablespoonsful of grated

Parmesan, the yolks of three eggs, and a tiny pinch of nutmeg. Mix

all well together, then let it cool, and spread out the paste so

that it is about the thickness of a finger. Put a little butter

and grated Parmesan and two tablespoonsful of cream in a fireproof

dish, cut out the semolina paste with a small dariole mould and put

it in the dish. Dust a little more Parmesan over it, put it in the

oven for five minutes and serve in the dish.

– 65 –

 

No. 17. Gnocchi alla Lombarda

Ingredients: Potatoes, flour, salt, Parmesan and Gruyere cheese,

butter, milk, eggs.

Boil two or three big potatoes, and pass them through a hair sieve,

mix in two tablespoonsful of flour, an egg beaten up, and enough

milk to form a rather firm paste; stir until it is quite smooth.

Roll it into the shape of a German sausage, cut it into rounds

about three quarters of an inch thick, and put it into the larder

to dry for about half an hour. Then drop the gnocchi one by one

into boiling salted water and boil for ten minutes. Take them out

with a slice, and put them in a well-buttered fireproof dish, add

butter between each layer, and strew plenty of grated Parmesan and

Cheddar over them. Put them in the oven for ten minutes, brown the

top with a salamander, and serve very hot.

 

No. 18. Frittata di Riso (Savoury Rice Pancake)

Ingredients: Rice, milk, salt, butter, cinnamon, eggs, Parmesan.

Boil quarter of a pound of rice in milk until it is quite soft and

pulpy, drain off the milk and add to the rice an ounce of butter,

two tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan, and a pinch of cinnamon, and

when it has got rather cold, the yolks of four eggs beaten up. Mix

all well together, and with this make a pancake with butter in a

frying pan.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 66 –

                                Omelettes And Other Egg Dishes

 

No. 1. Uova al Tartufi (Eggs with Truffles)

Ingredients: Eggs, butter, cream, truffles, Velute sauce,

croutons.

Beat up six eggs, pass them through a sieve, and put them into a

saucepan with two ounces of butter and two tablespoonsful of cream.

Put the saucepan in a bain-marie, and stir so that the eggs may not

adhere. Sautez some slices of truffle in butter, cover them with

Velute sauce and a glass of Marsala, and add them to the

eggs. Serve very hot with fried and glazed croutons. Instead of

truffles you can use asparagus tips, peas, or cooked ham.

 

No. 2. Uova al Pomidoro (Eggs and Tomatoes)

Ingredients: Eggs, salt, tomatoes, onion, parsley, butter, pepper.

Cut up three or four tomatoes, and put them into a stewpan with a

piece of butter the size of a walnut and a clove of garlic with a

cut in it. Put the lid on the stewpan and cook till quite soft,

then take out the garlic, strain the tomatoes through a fine

strainer into a bain-marie, beat up two eggs and add them to the

tomatoes, and stir till quite thick, then put in two tablespoonsful

of grated cheese, and serve on toast.

 

No. 3. Uova ripiene (Canapes of Egg)

Ingredients: Eggs, butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, cheese, parsley,

mushrooms, Bechamel and Espagnole sauce, stock.

Boil as many eggs as you want hard, and cut them in half

lengthwise; take out the yolks and mix them with some fresh butter,

salt, pepper, very little nutmeg, grated cheese, a little chopped

parsley, and cooked mushrooms also chopped. Then mix two

tablespoonsful of good Bechamel sauce with the raw yolk of

one or two eggs and add it to the rest. Put all in a saucepan with

an ounce of butter and good stock, then fill up the white halves

with the mixture, giving them a good shape; heat them in a bain-

marie, and serve with a very good clear Espagnole sauce.

 

No. 4. Uova alla Fiorentina (Eggs)

Ingredients: Eggs, butter, Parmesan, cream, flour, salt, pepper,

curds.

Boil as many eggs as you require hard, then cut them in half and

take out the yolks and pound them in a mortar with equal quantities

of butter and curds, a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan, salt and

pepper. Put this in a saucepan and add the yolks of eight eggs and

the white of one (this is for twelve people), mix all well together

and reduce a little. With this mixture fill the hard whites of the

eggs and spread the rest of the sauce on the bottom of the dish,

and on this place the whites. Then in another saucepan mix half a

gill of cream and an ounce of butter, a dessert-spoonful of flour,

67

 

salt, and pepper; let this boil for a minute, and then glaze over

the eggs in the dish with it, and on the top of each egg put a

little bit of butter, and over all a powdering of grated cheese.

Put this in the oven, pass the salamander over the top, and when

the cheese is coloured serve at once.

 

No. 5. Uova in fili (Egg Canapes)

Ingredients: Eggs, butter, mushrooms, onions, flour, white wine,

fish or meat stock, salt, pepper, croutons of bread.

Put into a saucepan two ounces of butter, three large fresh

mushrooms cut into slices, and an onion cut up, fry them slightly,

and when the onion begins to colour add a spoonful of flour, a

quarter of a glass of Chablis, salt and pepper, and occasionally

add a spoonful of either fish or meat stock. Let this simmer for

half an hour, so as to reduce it to a thick sauce. Then boil as

many eggs as you want hard; take out the yolks, but keep them

whole. Cut up the whites into slices, and add them to the above

sauce, pour the sauce into a dish, and on the top of it place the

whole yolks of egg, each on a crouton of bread.

 

No. 6. Frittata di funghi (Mushroom Omelette)

Ingredients: Mushrooms, butter, eggs, bread crumbs, Parmesan,

marjoram, garlic.

Clean four or five mushrooms, cut them up, and put them into a

frying-pan with one and a half ounces of butter, a clove of garlic

with two cuts in it, and a little salt; fry them lightly till the

mushrooms are nearly cooked, and then take out the garlic. In the

meantime beat up separately the yolks and the whites of two or

three eggs, add a little crumb of bread soaked in water, a

tablespoonful of grated Parmesan, and two leaves of marjoram; go on

beating all up until the crumb of bread has become entirely

absorbed by the eggs, then pour this mixture into the frying-pan

with the mushrooms, mix all well together and make an omelette in

the usual way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 68 –

 

No. 7. Frittata con Pomidoro (Tomato Omelette)

Ingredients: Eggs, tomatoes, butter, marjoram, parsley, spice.

Peel two tomatoes and take out the seeds; then mix them with an

ounce of butter, chopped marjoram, parsley, and a tiny pinch of

spice. Add three eggs beaten up (the yolks and whites separately),

and make an omelette.

 

No. 8. Frittata con Asparagi (Asparagus Omelette)

Ingredients: Eggs, asparagus, butter, ham, herbs, cheese.

Blanch a dozen heads of asparagus and cook them slightly, then cut

them up and mix with two ounces of butter, bits of cut-up ham,

herbs, and a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan. Add them to three

beaten-up eggs and make an omelette.

 

No. 9. Frittata con erbe (Omelette with Herbs)

Ingredients: Eggs, onions, sorrel, mint, parsley, asparagus,

marjoram, salt, pepper, butter.

Chop a little sorrel, a small bit of onion, mint, parsley,

marjoram, and fry in two ounces of butter, add some cut-up

asparagus, salt, and pepper. Then add three eggs beaten up and a

little grated cheese, and make your omelette.

 

No. 10. Frittata Montata (Omelette Souffle)

Ingredients: Eggs, Parmesan, pepper, parsley.

Beat up the whites of three eggs to a froth and the yolks

separately with a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan, chopped

parsley, and a little pepper. Then mix them and make a light

omelette.

 

No. 11. Frittata di Prosciutto (Ham Omelette)

Ingredients: Eggs, ham, Parmesan, mint, pepper, clotted cream.

Beat up three eggs and add to them two tablespoonsful of clotted

cream, one tablespoonful of chopped ham, one of grated Parmesan,

chopped mint and a little pepper, and make the omelette in the

usual way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 69 –

 

                            Italian Sweets and Cakes

No. 1. Bodino of Semolina

Ingredients: Semolina, milk, eggs, castor sugar, lemon, sultanas,

rum, butter, cream, or Zabajone.

Boil one and a half pints of milk with four ounces of castor sugar,

and gradually add five ounces of semolina, boil for a quarter of an

hour more and stir continually with a wooden spoon, then take the

saucepan off the fire, and when it is cooled a little, add the

yolks of six and the whites of two eggs well beaten up, a little

grated lemon peel, three-quarters of an ounce of sultanas and two

small glasses of rum. Mix well, so as to get it very smooth, pour

it into a buttered mould and serve either hot or cold. If cold,

put whipped cream flavoured with stick vanilla round the dish; if

hot, a Zabajone.

 

No. 2. Crema rappresa (Coffee Cream)

Ingredients: Coffee, cream, eggs, sugar, butter.

Bruise five ounces of freshly roasted Mocha coffee, and add it to

three-quarters of a pint of boiling cream; cover the saucepan, let

it simmer for twenty minutes, then pass through a bit of fine

muslin. In the meantime mix the yolks of ten eggs and two whole

eggs with eight ounces of castor sugar and a glass of cream; add

the coffee cream to this and pass the whole through a fine sieve

into a buttered mould. Steam in a bain-marie for rather more than

an hour, but do not let the water boil; then put the cream on ice

for about an hour, and before serving turn it out on a dish and

pour some cream flavoured with stick vanilla round it.

 

No. 3. Crema Montata alle Fragole (Strawberry Cream)

Ingredients: Cream, castor sugar, Maraschino, strawberries or

strawberry jam.

Put a pint of cream on ice, and after two hours whip it up. Pass

three tablespoonsful of strawberry jam through a sieve and add two

tablespoonsful of Maraschino; mix this with the cream and build it

up into a pyramid. Garnish with meringue biscuits and serve

quickly. You may use fresh strawberries when in season, but then

add castor sugar to taste.

 

 

 

 

 

– 70 –

 

No. 4. Croccante di Mandorle (Cream Nougat)

Ingredients: Almonds, sugar, lemon juice, butter, castor sugar,

pistachios, preserved fruits.

Blanch half a pound of almonds, cut them into shreds and dry them

in a slow oven until they are a light brown colour; then put a

quarter pound of lump sugar into a saucepan and caramel it lightly;

stir well with a wooden spoon. When the sugar is dissolved, throw

the hot almonds into it and also a little lemon juice. Take the

saucepan off the fire and mix the almonds with the sugar, pour it

into a buttered mould and press it against the sides of the mould

with a lemon, but remember that the casing of sugar must be very

thin. (You may, if you like, spread out the mixture on a flat dish

and line the mould with your hands, but the sugar must be kept

hot.) Then take it out of the mould and decorate it with castor

sugar, pistacchio nuts, and preserved fruits. Fill this case with

whipped cream and preserved fruits or fresh strawberries.

 

No. 5. Crema tartara alla Caramella (Caramel Cream)

Ingredients: Cream, eggs, caramel sugar, vanilla or lemon

flavouring.

Boil a pint of cream and give it any flavour you like. When cold,

add the yolks of eight eggs and two tablespoonsful of castor sugar,

mix well and pass it through a sieve; then burn some sugar to a

caramel, line a smooth mould with it and pour the cream into it.

Boil in a bain-marie for an hour and serve hot or cold.

 

No. 6. Cremona Cake

Ingredients: Ground rice, ground maize, sugar, one orange, eggs,

salt, cream, Maraschino, almonds, preserved cherries.

Weigh three eggs, and take equal quantities of castor sugar,

butter, ground rice and maize (the last two together); make a light

paste with them, but only use one whole egg and the yolks of the

two others, add the scraped peel of an orange and a pinch of salt.

Roll this paste out to the thickness of a five-shilling piece,

colour it with the yolk of an egg and bake it in a cake tin in a

hot oven until it is a good colour, then take it out and cut it

into four equal circular pieces. Have ready some well-whipped

cream and flavour it with Maraschino, put a thick layer of this on

one of the rounds of pastry, then cover it with: the next round,

on which also put a layer of cream, and so on until you come to the

last round, which forms the top of the cake. Then split some

almonds and colour them in the oven, cover the top of the cake with

icing sugar flavoured with orange, and decorate the top with the

almonds and preserved cherries.

 

 

– 71 –

 

No. 7. Cake alla Tolentina

Ingredients: Sponge-cake, jam, brandy or Maraschino, cream, pine-

apple.

Make a medium-sized sponge-cake; when cold cut off the top and

scoop out all the middle and leave only the brown case; cover the

outside with a good coating of jam or red currant jelly, and

decorate it with some of the white of the cake cut into fancy

shapes. Soak the rest of the crumb in brandy or Maraschino and mix

it with quarter of a pint of whipped cream and bits of pineapple

cut into small dice; fill the cake with this; pile it up high in

the centre and decorate the top with the brown top cut into fancy

shapes.

 

No. 8. Riso all’Imperatrice

Ingredients: Rice, sugar, milk, ice, preserved fruits, blanc-

mange, Maraschino, cream.

Boil two dessert-spoonsful of rice and one of sugar in milk. When

sufficiently boiled, drain the rice and let it get cold. In the

meantime place a mould on ice, and decorate it with slices of

preserved fruit, and fix them to the mould with just enough nearly

cold dissolved isinglass to keep them in place. Also put half a

pint of blanc-mange on the ice, and stir it till it is the right

consistency, gradually add the boiled rice, half a glass of

Maraschino, some bits of pineapple cut in dice, and last of all

half a pint of whipped cream. Fill the mould with this, and when

it is sufficiently cold, turn it out and serve with a garnish of

glace fruits or a few brandy cherries.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

– 72 –

 

No. 9. Amaretti leggieri (Almond Cakes)

Ingredients: Almonds (sweet and bitter), eggs, castor sugar.

Blanch equal quantities of sweet and bitter almonds, and dry them a

little in the oven, then pound them in a mortar, and add nearly

double their quantity of castor sugar. Mix with the white of an

egg well beaten up into a snow, and shape into little balls about

the size of a pigeon’s egg. Put them on a piece of stout white

paper, and bake them in a very slow oven. They should be very

light and delicate in flavour.

 

No. 10. Cakes alla Livornese

Ingredients: Almonds, eggs, sugar, salt, potato flour, butter.

Pound two ounces of almonds, and mix them with the yolks of two

eggs and a spoonful of castor sugar flavoured with orange juice.

Then mix two ounces of sugar with an egg, and to this add the

almonds, a pinch of salt, and gradually strew in one and a half

ounces of potato flour. When it is all well mixed, add one ounce

of melted butter, shape the cakes and bake them in a slow oven.

 

No. 11. Genoese Pastry

Ingredients: Eggs, sugar, butter, flour, almonds, orange or lemon,

brandy.

Weigh four eggs, and take equal weights of castor sugar, butter,

and flour. Pound three ounces of almonds, and mix them with an

egg, melt the butter, and mix all the ingredients with a wooden

spoon in a pudding basin for ten minutes, then add a little scraped

orange or lemon peel, and a dessert-spoonful of brandy. Spread out

the paste in thin layers on a copper baking sheet, cover them with

buttered paper, and bake in a moderately hot oven.

These cakes must be cut into shapes when they are hot, as otherwise

they will break.

 

No. 12. Zabajone

Ingredients: Eggs, sugar, Marsala, Maraschino or other light-

coloured liqueur, sponge fingers.

Zabajone is a kind of syllabub. It is made with Marsala and

Maraschino, or Marsala and yellow Chartreuse. Reckon the

quantities as follows: for each person the yolks of three eggs,

one teaspoonful of castor sugar to each egg, and a wine-glass of

wine and liqueur mixed. Whip up the yolks of the eggs with the

sugar, then gradually add the wine. Put this in a bain-marie, and

stir until it has thickened to the consistency of a custard. Take

care, however, that it does not boil. Serve hot in custard

glasses, and hand sponge fingers with it.

 

 

– 73 –

 

No. 13. Iced Zabajone

Ingredients: Eggs, castor sugar, Marsala, cinnamon, lemon, stick

vanilla, rum, Maraschino, butter, ice.

Mix the yolks of ten eggs, two dessert-spoonsful of castor sugar,

and three wine- glasses of Marsala, add half a stick of vanilla, a

small bit of whole cinnamon, and the peel of half a lemon cut into

slices.

Whip this up lightly over a slow fire until it is nearly boiling

and slightly frothy; then remove it, take out the cinnamon,

vanilla, and lemon pool, and whip up the rest for a minute or two

away from the fire. Add a tablespoonful of Maraschino and one of

rum, and, if you like, a small quantity of dissolved isinglass.

Stir up the whole, pour it into a silver souffle dish, and put it

on ice. Serve with sponge cakes or iced wafers.

 

No. 14. Pan-forte di Siena (Sienese Hardbake)

Ingredients: Honey, almonds, filberts, candied lemon peel, pepper,

cinnamon, chocolate, corn flour, large wafers.

Boil half a pound of honey in a copper vessel, and then add to it a

few blanched almonds and filberts cut in halves or quarters and

slightly browned, a little candied lemon peel, a dust of pepper and

powdered cinnamon and a quarter pound of grated chocolate. Mix all

well together, and gradually add a tablespoonful of corn flour end

two of ground almonds to thicken it. Then take the vessel off the

fire, spread the mixture on large wafers, and make each cake about

an inch thick. Garnish them on the top with almonds cut in half,

and dust over a little powdered sugar and cinnamon, then put them

in a very slow oven for an hour.

2
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